Welcome to Our Community

Wanting to join the rest of our members? Feel free to sign up today.

Sign Up

How to convert from chain to belt drive

Discussion in 'How-To' started by alhall88, Jun 10, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Left side drive conversion from standard wet chain primary drive to a Primo Rivera Brute IV 3 inch open belt. First here's one last shot at the stock set up.
    [​IMG]
     
    Tim likes this.
  2. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    First thing is easy drain the juice from your primary using the drain plug, then put something down as you loosen all the outer primary cover bolts you'll find there's more fluid in there.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Next go ahead and remove the outer primary cover, there is no need to remove the inspection cover or the derby cover and this is what you should see.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Next remove the tensioner assembly(just 2 bolts in the center)
    [​IMG]
     
  5. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now here is where I'm glad that I decided to switch over to a belt drive. I have already once before had to replace my whole charging system due to the compensator nut backing off and tearing everything up.Well guess what the damn thing was getting ready to come loose again it was barely tight.Well here is a pick of my home made stop bar that I used to break loose the front 1-1/2 compensator nut and the rear clutch hub nut.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now that everything is loose, go ahead and pull all the clutch plates out.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now you can pull the the clutch hub,primary chain, and the front compensator assembly off in one shot.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now remove the starter jack shaft assembly with the 1 bolt in the center.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Here's a quick shot of the gutless primary.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now remove all the inner primary bolts including the 2 bolts that hold the starter on (I'm going to assume you are smart enough to already remove the battery cable at this time) and put a rag down and lay the starter down on top the tranny. At this point you can now pull the the inner primary off.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    And there you have a nice pile of parts ready for ebay.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    OK moving on here's a pic of the inner bearing race that has to come off in order to install the new one.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    And here's a shot of the Jims race puller you will need to remove it.Trust me there are other ways but this will make your life easier.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    At this point you should take a look into your charging system and clean it out. I used this cheap dampner puller from muurays to remove the rotor or flywheel as some people call it.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    OK thats it for the removal process and here's the new goods waiting to be installed.
    [​IMG]
     
  16. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Also note this is where spending a few extra bucks on this system pays off. Case in point, the bearings are pre installed the front, offset is specific to my frame (1-7/16) so there was absolutly no shimming required. So lets start with installing the new jackshaft extender.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now the rear section of the motor plate goes on, but just start the bolts in.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    This is what I was talking about when I said the offset was built into the front motor plate (no spacers). Also the 2 pc. motor plate will allow some adjustment of the belt so you will get a little more life from your belt than with a one pc. plate.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now lets slap that baby on.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. alhall88

    alhall88 UAW

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2007
    Messages:
    2,121
    Likes Received:
    63
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Petersburg, Michigan
    Now we put both pullys on and hand tighten the nuts to see if both are in perfect alignment wit a straight edge. If not you must shim the front pulley out or remove some material if needed. But as I said no shims for me it was spot on.
    [​IMG]
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page