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"How To" change your fork oil

Discussion in 'How-To' started by narow37, Oct 7, 2007.

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  1. narow37

    narow37 Angry Southern White Man

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    1.) Remove fork brace and front fender. I put the fork brace back on to help keep everything tied together once the front end was off.

    2.) Get the bike up on the stand and secure. Seeing as how we are taking the front end off, I put a styrofoam block under the back wheel to stop the bike from rotating backwards from loss of weight on the front of the bike. I also covered the tank and rear fender with towels.
    [​IMG]

    3.) Remove caliper(make note of any shims and where they go) and hang from somewhere on the bike(I used the clutch cable retainers on the frame) so you don't stress the fittings on the caliper.
    [​IMG]

    4.) I lubed up the upper portion of the legs so they would slide through the trees easily. I used my royal purple motor oil, doesn't take much.

    5.) Place some tape around the Fork Tube Cap to protect against scratches.
    [​IMG]

    6.) Remove Fork Tube Caps with 1 3/8" socket. At this point an extra set of hands will help. Next, remove the pinch bolts on the back of the lower tree.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    7.) Hold both legs just below the lower tree and place a little pressure on the lower tree with thumbs. The legs should start to slide downward. Once you have the whole front end off, put the Fork Tube Caps back in place. I did this so I could drain one leg at a time.

    8.) Carefully flip the front end over. I placed one leg on a towel and one in the bucket. Unscrew the Tube Cap and let oil drain out. You may have to pump the shock to get all the oil to drain out. Repeat for other leg.
    [​IMG]

    9.) Take the fork tube caps back off and if needed, relube the upper legs. Carefully slide the legs back up through the trees and replace the Fork Tube Caps and snug them up. Replace the Pinch bolts and snug them up. Not too tight yet, just so the legs don't move on you.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    10.) Measure out 10oz. of fork oil. PJ1 30w fork oil is what the Shop Manual calls for. Remove Fork Tube Cap and carefully pour oil in to th top of the leg. Repeat for other leg.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    11.) Replace Fork Tube Caps and torque to 50ft-lbs. Torque all pinch bolts to 16ft-lbs.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    12.) Replace caliper with shims in correct place. Use red loctight and torque to 39 ft-lbs.
    [​IMG]

    13.) Remove bike from stand and double check all Torque specs.

    14.) Remove Fork brace, Replace Fender, Replace fork brace using Red Loctight on the bolts. Clean Up the bike.
    [​IMG]

    15.) Go for a short test ride and double check all torque specs again.

    This procedure took my dad and I about 2.5 hours to complete, but we were being very careful and "clean". Gasman, please add to this "How to" as you see fit or you can make your own if you want. I know that everyone was saying the the old fluid really smelled bad but, mine didn't really smell at all.
     
    Big D Florida and Tim like this.
  2. Oscar Maldonado

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    That's awesome Narow. You'll be matching Gas' how to's in no time.

    The step by step with the pics. is the way to go.:2thumbs:
     
  3. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    Nice work Narow...I especially like adding the torque specs on each step. Thanks!
     
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  4. Raywood

    Raywood The Pirate
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    Good job guys, GS now has some competition with you two. What's next on your list?

    Great job,
    Ray
     
  5. P8RIOT

    P8RIOT Well-Known Member
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    Great job - nice pics, and just the right amount of detail. :up:
     
  6. Chopper Dave

    Chopper Dave SIICK!!!

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    Great job bro......nice detail and pic's....but you never added how much beer you drank.....you know......carefully remove fender....have a beverage....etc...:cheers: :roll: :roll: :roll:

    LOL!....seriously....good job.....
     
  7. woodbutcher

    woodbutcher Mr. Old Fart member #145
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    actually, no beverages were consumed and no animals were injured in the production on this how-to:2thumbs: . enough stress the way it was seein' as how this was the most involved for either one of us.
    and really, do go for a short ride and re-torque the bolts. they did settle in quite a bit. we went for a longer ride later and re-checked once more and there was very little difference that time.:)
     
  8. narow37

    narow37 Angry Southern White Man

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    I was going to put in to add beverage of choice at chosen intervals. :lol: :cheers:
     
    #8 narow37, Oct 7, 2007
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2007
  9. Tim

    Tim a.k.a. BubbleHead
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    Thanks for the kick ass "how-to". :cheers:
     
  10. LDO

    LDO The Cleaner
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    Nice job!! :2thumbs:

    Nothing beats wrenching on your own bike!:whoop:
     
  11. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Great write up.

    I'll be doing this service on my chop this winter but I was considering changing the seals and pulling the front wheel for more polishing and to grease the bearings..
     
  12. Raywood

    Raywood The Pirate
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    Gas, the bearings are sealed and you simply replace them. I did once pull the seals and put grease in them but was told that you don't do this! :spank:
    They are really cheap, I think I paid $15 for the five of them.

    Later,
    Ray
     
  13. choppersforlife

    choppersforlife CHOPPERSFORLIFE
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    Thanks

    Thanks "Narow". I (we) appreciate your time and effort.:cheers:

    Ride Safe
     
  14. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Ok.... on the bearings... well I figured if i'm going to pull the front end... I might as well "look around".

    And I think I'll do the seals at least. Its old sportbike habbit. You ALWAYS replace them... but that was from wheelies....
     
  15. narow37

    narow37 Angry Southern White Man

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    Thanks everyone for the words of appreciation and hope it helps for others. Gas, glad to know its worthy of your praise. thanks again.

    shane
     
  16. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Yeah its good. You got all the good pics on where to put the tools, easy step by step, and included good info like torque specs. I'll probably review before I do mine!
     
  17. kickstart

    kickstart Well-Known Member

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    :2thumbs: Nice Job, I might have to do one when I get around to doing mine (Inverted) however I had a seal leak under warranty and the Mechanic decided to do both back in June, so it will be a while and very few have them anyway.
     
  18. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    Being I just did my fork service as described in my thread... http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2498-how-service-your-forks.html

    You could also just drain from the bottom and fill from the top without pulling the whole front end. Don't mind my pics with the forks off, but I think you can access all of this with the unit on the bike and the wheels still there as well.

    Remove the lower cap
    [​IMG]

    Then remove the plug, which also happens to seperate the lower leg from the rod dampner inside the fork tube. But it should let you drain the fluid.
    [​IMG]

    Then simply remove the top cap/plug as described above and refill.

    Just maybe another alternative...
     
  19. Alicat

    Alicat Hanging out

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    Great write up you two!

    Now if I only had the ambition to do it myself! LOL!!!
     
  20. BubbleHead

    BubbleHead Big Dog Biker test account

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    great job Narrow!! Maybe Gas does have a little competion (he he) :) Just kidding Gas;)
    I'm not quite as good at repair as a lot of guys here so I'm thinking I'll let Blackdog take my whole front apart rather than me doing it and losing my front end going down the road after I'm done :):)
     
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