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How long does do you take to back off the enricher completely

Discussion in 'Technical' started by No H2O, Jan 7, 2019.

  1. No H2O

    No H2O Active Member
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    When starting in colder weather I have the enricher/choke on the highest setting.
    Almost immediately after starting I start backing off the enricher.
    Somewhere in the middle of the range is where I have it idling (unassisted) the longest.
    Eventually I back it all the way down and give it some throttle until it idles comfortably by itself.
    I'll wait until the headers are warm to the touch, if not already, before taking off.
    Total duration = 5-6 minutes.
    How long is the duration from full enricher to no enricher for you?
     
  2. MossBerg590

    MossBerg590 Active Member

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    I have never used mine a single time
     
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  3. Mickeetwo

    Mickeetwo Guru
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    I don't use the enricher at all, uaually three twist of the throttle and then hit the start button, mine fires right up. Then just keep it idled up for a couple of minutes.
     
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  4. Mickeetwo

    Mickeetwo Guru
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    Same here
     
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  5. PacoPetty

    PacoPetty Well-Known Member

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    I have never used mine.
     
  6. PacoPetty

    PacoPetty Well-Known Member

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    Same here!
     
  7. Mr. Wright

    Mr. Wright Guru
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    It is an enrichener not a choke. When used, you pull it up after the start button is pushed. This allows a little more gas through the carb to assist with starting. Some prefer to twist the throttle a couple times. On cold starts, I twist the throttle once, and use the enrichener. As soon as the bike starts, it needs to be pushed back down all the way. Leaving it up does nothing but foul the spark plugs. If your bike won't stay running after 30 seconds of fast idle with the throttle, your carb is not adjusted correctly, or you have the wrong jets in it.
     
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  8. Tim

    Tim Guru
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    Open the enrichener, one twist of the throttle and then start and idle for a couple of minutes then slowly close the enrichener. Worked for me that way.
     
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  9. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    I’m another who has never used it. I bought a fancy-assed knob for it, but it has no prints on it at all.
     
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  10. No H2O

    No H2O Active Member
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    So it sounds like you're backing off the enricher entirely pretty much immediately after starting then using the throttle to keep the RPMs up for a little while, say 30 seconds, until it's able to idel on it's own?
     
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  11. FrankBDPS

    FrankBDPS Well-Known Member

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    Put me in the have never used it club also. What ever works for you.
     
  12. Big D Florida

    Big D Florida Well-Known Member
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    Never use it, myself...
     
  13. No H2O

    No H2O Active Member
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    question for those who don't use the enricher at all ... what is the coldest temperature you're able to start your bike in without manually applying heat to the carb itself?
     
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  14. heybaylor

    heybaylor Active Member

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    dunno the time , just use it until the engine tells me to quit.
    your results may vary with the temperature.
     
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  15. Mr. Wright

    Mr. Wright Guru
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    That's the way I was taught to do it, BUT I looked it up, and it looks like I am partly wrong. This is directly out of the S&S carb manual. I underlined #7 below.

    ENRICHMENT DEVICE NOTES
    Enrichment/fast idle pickup tube located directly below
    fast idle plunger, part #11-2343, is pressed into carburetor
    body and must not be removed.
    See Picture 38.
    CAUTION - Removal of enrichment/fast idle pickup tube
    from carburetor body may cause irreversible damage to
    carburetor.
    Plunger nut, part #11-2344, plunger spring, part #11-2340,
    and plunger, part #11-2343, may be removed for cleaning
    purposes.
    If air cleaner backplate is removed, be sure fast idle lever
    and enrichment plunger are engaged properly when
    backplate is reinstalled.
    See Picture 20.
    S&S enrichment system operates on manifold vacuum.
    If throttle is opened while starting engine, vacuum will
    be reduced and enrichment system will not function
    normally.
    A. Cold Starts
    1. Open fuel petcock.
    NOTE - When motorcycle is not running, fuel petcock/shutoff
    valve should be turned off to prevent possible leakage should
    needle and seat not seal properly.
    CAUTION - Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood
    engine causing oil contamination and engine damage.
    WARNING - Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood
    engine and surrounding area creating a potential health
    and fire hazard.
    2. Prime engine with one or more squirts from
    accelerator pump. Ambient temperatures below
    60
    °
    may require increased priming, up to 6-7
    squirts depending upon exact temperature and
    carb jet size.
    3. Pull fast idle lever, part #17-0327 or part #17-0329,
    to fully raised position.
    4. Turn on ignition.
    NOTE - Some engines, especially those equipped with
    magnetos, will start easier if given two prime kicks BEFORE
    ignition is turned on. For reliable starting, magneto should
    be equipped with kill button to disable ignition for prime kicks.
    5. With throttle closed, kick engine through or
    engage electric starter.
    6. If engine fails to start immediately, crack throttle
    enough to barely open butterfly and continue to
    kick or engage starter until engine fires.
    7. After engine starts, position lever to maintain rpm
    at approximately 1000-1200 rpm with throttle
    closed. Lever may gradually be pushed down to
    closed position as engine warms. Engine should
    be warmed sufficiently to idle with fast idle lever
    off in 1 to 4 minutes or after a few miles of riding.
    NOTE - Operating engine with fast idle lever up for excessive
    time will result in fouled spark plugs. Push lever completely
    down as soon as engine will run smoothly without enrichener.

    B. Hot Starts
    1. Open fuel petcock.
    2. Turn on ignition.
    3. With throttle closed, kick engine through or
    engage electric starter.
    4. If engine fails to start immediately, open throttle
    slightly and continue to kick or engage starter
    until engine fires.
    C. Troubleshooting Tips - engine will not start:
    1. Fuel supply exhausted.
    2. Weak or no spark - discharged battery, worn
    points, faulty condenser, ignition module, coil,
    spark plug wires, or magneto.
    3. Plug gap too wide - S&S uses .025" to .030" plug
    gap on engines with points type ignition and
    stock coil. Electronic ignitions and high output
    coils can run wider plug gaps.
    4. Improper ignition timing - Worn or poorly
    maintained mechanical advance units sometime
    stick in advanced position causing hard starting,
    kick-back and erratic idle.
    5. Tight tappet adjustment. If solid tappets are
    adjusted too tightly, valves may not seat properly,
    and the loss of compression may prevent the
    engine from starting.
    6. Improper idle mixture and/or engine idle rpm
    setting. If idle mixture is set incorrectly, throttle
    plate must be opened farther with the idle speed
    screw in order to maintain idle speed. This
    reduces manifold vacuum and makes the
    enrichment circuit less effective. See

    Adjusting
    Carburetor - Idle Circui
     
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  16. Mr. Wright

    Mr. Wright Guru
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  17. awg

    awg Well-Known Member

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    There you go!
     
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  18. mjsk9

    mjsk9 Active Member
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    I also never use mine; however, from the owners manual for my '06 K9....
    IMG_3036 (2).jpg
     
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  19. PacoPetty

    PacoPetty Well-Known Member

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    Same here but at least the knob is pretty!
     
  20. Mr. Wright

    Mr. Wright Guru
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    I'll show you mine, if you will show me yours.
    IMG_20180817_152436_resized_20180817_042810126.jpg
     

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