How long does do you take to back off the enricher completely

Gathering

No H2O

Active Member
Supporting Member
When starting in colder weather I have the enricher/choke on the highest setting.
Almost immediately after starting I start backing off the enricher.
Somewhere in the middle of the range is where I have it idling (unassisted) the longest.
Eventually I back it all the way down and give it some throttle until it idles comfortably by itself.
I'll wait until the headers are warm to the touch, if not already, before taking off.
Total duration = 5-6 minutes.
How long is the duration from full enricher to no enricher for you?
 

Mickeetwo

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I don't use the enricher at all, uaually three twist of the throttle and then hit the start button, mine fires right up. Then just keep it idled up for a couple of minutes.
 

Mr. Wright

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
It is an enrichener not a choke. When used, you pull it up after the start button is pushed. This allows a little more gas through the carb to assist with starting. Some prefer to twist the throttle a couple times. On cold starts, I twist the throttle once, and use the enrichener. As soon as the bike starts, it needs to be pushed back down all the way. Leaving it up does nothing but foul the spark plugs. If your bike won't stay running after 30 seconds of fast idle with the throttle, your carb is not adjusted correctly, or you have the wrong jets in it.
 

Tim

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Lifetime Supporting Member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Supporting Member
Open the enrichener, one twist of the throttle and then start and idle for a couple of minutes then slowly close the enrichener. Worked for me that way.
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I’m another who has never used it. I bought a fancy-assed knob for it, but it has no prints on it at all.
 

No H2O

Active Member
Supporting Member
It is an enrichener not a choke. When used, you pull it up after the start button is pushed. This allows a little more gas through the carb to assist with starting. Some prefer to twist the throttle a couple times. On cold starts, I twist the throttle once, and use the enrichener. As soon as the bike starts, it needs to be pushed back down all the way. Leaving it up does nothing but foul the spark plugs. If your bike won't stay running after 30 seconds of fast idle with the throttle, your carb is not adjusted correctly, or you have the wrong jets in it.
So it sounds like you're backing off the enricher entirely pretty much immediately after starting then using the throttle to keep the RPMs up for a little while, say 30 seconds, until it's able to idel on it's own?
 

Mr. Wright

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
So it sounds like you're backing off the enricher entirely pretty much immediately after starting then using the throttle to keep the RPMs up for a little while, say 30 seconds, until it's able to idel on it's own?
That's the way I was taught to do it, BUT I looked it up, and it looks like I am partly wrong. This is directly out of the S&S carb manual. I underlined #7 below.

ENRICHMENT DEVICE NOTES
Enrichment/fast idle pickup tube located directly below
fast idle plunger, part #11-2343, is pressed into carburetor
body and must not be removed.
See Picture 38.
CAUTION - Removal of enrichment/fast idle pickup tube
from carburetor body may cause irreversible damage to
carburetor.
Plunger nut, part #11-2344, plunger spring, part #11-2340,
and plunger, part #11-2343, may be removed for cleaning
purposes.
If air cleaner backplate is removed, be sure fast idle lever
and enrichment plunger are engaged properly when
backplate is reinstalled.
See Picture 20.
S&S enrichment system operates on manifold vacuum.
If throttle is opened while starting engine, vacuum will
be reduced and enrichment system will not function
normally.
A. Cold Starts
1. Open fuel petcock.
NOTE - When motorcycle is not running, fuel petcock/shutoff
valve should be turned off to prevent possible leakage should
needle and seat not seal properly.
CAUTION - Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood
engine causing oil contamination and engine damage.
WARNING - Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood
engine and surrounding area creating a potential health
and fire hazard.
2. Prime engine with one or more squirts from
accelerator pump. Ambient temperatures below
60
°
may require increased priming, up to 6-7
squirts depending upon exact temperature and
carb jet size.
3. Pull fast idle lever, part #17-0327 or part #17-0329,
to fully raised position.
4. Turn on ignition.
NOTE - Some engines, especially those equipped with
magnetos, will start easier if given two prime kicks BEFORE
ignition is turned on. For reliable starting, magneto should
be equipped with kill button to disable ignition for prime kicks.
5. With throttle closed, kick engine through or
engage electric starter.
6. If engine fails to start immediately, crack throttle
enough to barely open butterfly and continue to
kick or engage starter until engine fires.
7. After engine starts, position lever to maintain rpm
at approximately 1000-1200 rpm with throttle
closed. Lever may gradually be pushed down to
closed position as engine warms. Engine should
be warmed sufficiently to idle with fast idle lever
off in 1 to 4 minutes or after a few miles of riding.
NOTE - Operating engine with fast idle lever up for excessive
time will result in fouled spark plugs. Push lever completely
down as soon as engine will run smoothly without enrichener.

B. Hot Starts
1. Open fuel petcock.
2. Turn on ignition.
3. With throttle closed, kick engine through or
engage electric starter.
4. If engine fails to start immediately, open throttle
slightly and continue to kick or engage starter
until engine fires.
C. Troubleshooting Tips - engine will not start:
1. Fuel supply exhausted.
2. Weak or no spark - discharged battery, worn
points, faulty condenser, ignition module, coil,
spark plug wires, or magneto.
3. Plug gap too wide - S&S uses .025" to .030" plug
gap on engines with points type ignition and
stock coil. Electronic ignitions and high output
coils can run wider plug gaps.
4. Improper ignition timing - Worn or poorly
maintained mechanical advance units sometime
stick in advanced position causing hard starting,
kick-back and erratic idle.
5. Tight tappet adjustment. If solid tappets are
adjusted too tightly, valves may not seat properly,
and the loss of compression may prevent the
engine from starting.
6. Improper idle mixture and/or engine idle rpm
setting. If idle mixture is set incorrectly, throttle
plate must be opened farther with the idle speed
screw in order to maintain idle speed. This
reduces manifold vacuum and makes the
enrichment circuit less effective. See

Adjusting
Carburetor - Idle Circui
 
Top