How do they do it?
- Thread starter KROGOTH
- Start date
KaptinAmerika
Guru
A point I missed earlier that was brought to my attention by K9Aniv:
DESPITE WHAT THE CAN STATES "DO NOT USE LIQUID GLASS ON ANYTHING BUT YOUR PAINT" or you will regret it.
The trick is the cloth and amount of pressure you use when you buff the paint. Waste of time anyway if you ride alot because as soon as you get that paint smooth and glossy then you will ride it and it will just get all scratched up again. Its like aluminum. I can get my aluminum to look better than chrome, seriously no scratches at all with an absolute mirror shine. But it takes literally nothing to scratch it. I can rub my finger on it and it is scratched again even if I use a wipe on aluminum sealer. Paint is kinda the same way. I use nothing but 100% cotton diapers, yes diapers, with a product called "Scratch Out" to get my paint glossy smooth and scratch free. I then use a product called "Liquid Glass" to seal it and give it a hard coat. Couple days of riding and wiping grime with a waterless cleaning product and its scratched again. But thats what the "Liquid Glass" is for. Instead of wearing the clear coat each time I buff it with "Scratch Out" I wear the "Liquid Glass". I initially put 8 coats of Liquid Glass to get a really deep shine and man was it deep. Now I simply clean once a month with Scratch Out and renew the Liquid Glass coat. And I every time I do the renew I am reminded as to just how sweet the paint can really look if I did this and then just left it in the garage "Yeah Right".
Whatever you choose to use I can tell you with definite experience that it is all in the 100% cotton diapers, both for paint and aluminum, and the amount of pressure you use when you wax and buff. Some of the guys on this site recommend micro fiber towels, which I do use with my waterless for day to day general cleaning, but if you buff your shit out with a 100% cotton diaper and then rub it just a little with the micro fiber you will see exactly what I am talking about. The micro Fiber towels scratch the shit ouut of everything. And you must use a product that removes swirls and scratches before you wax or all you will do is seal in the scratches that are already there. If you do this work out of the daylight then use a light to shine from the side against the paint. That will really show you, when you look at it from an angle and not straight on, if you have the scratches out or not.
I have asked the same question of numerous pro builders and gotten the same answer as listed above. Its all about just how patient can you be. Want it right takes time. I have had plenty of people promise me a magic potion and swear to me how great it is only to put out the money and find out that it really isn't any better than all the other bottles of shit in my shop.
Clean 100% cotton diapers is the real trick though. Don't be stingy and cheap and get a clean wrag for Christ Sake.
If you have really bad scratches in your paint then you can use like a 2000 grit wet sand paper and with a little water and just the slightest amount of pressure you can clean up the heavy scratches and nicks, polish it back out with Scratch Out and then seal it with Liquid Glass. I just finished pulling my tank and removeing the vent tube inside because it broke off at the bottom bung and was rattling like hell. So I have had problems in the past with bubbles in the paint around my gas bung and had read a nice thread by one of the killer painters on this site about using JB weld around the paint under the bung to help prevent this. Well long story short I Fd the pooch somehow and got JB weld on the paint under the Service Cover, Don't ask me how cause I jut don't know. Well I ended up taking a razor blade, and you must be incredibly careful with this method or you will damage your paint beyond a simple repair, scraped the heaviest stuff off, wet sanded the remainder including some really tiny nicks caused by the razor, buffed it back to a deep shine with Scratch Out and sealed it with Liquid Glass. Looks like nothing was ever wrong. Of course I was crapping my pants the whole time because the last F up cost me 450 bucks to fix.
Long winded but I hope it helps.
DESPITE WHAT THE CAN STATES "DO NOT USE LIQUID GLASS ON ANYTHING BUT YOUR PAINT" or you will regret it.
The trick is the cloth and amount of pressure you use when you buff the paint. Waste of time anyway if you ride alot because as soon as you get that paint smooth and glossy then you will ride it and it will just get all scratched up again. Its like aluminum. I can get my aluminum to look better than chrome, seriously no scratches at all with an absolute mirror shine. But it takes literally nothing to scratch it. I can rub my finger on it and it is scratched again even if I use a wipe on aluminum sealer. Paint is kinda the same way. I use nothing but 100% cotton diapers, yes diapers, with a product called "Scratch Out" to get my paint glossy smooth and scratch free. I then use a product called "Liquid Glass" to seal it and give it a hard coat. Couple days of riding and wiping grime with a waterless cleaning product and its scratched again. But thats what the "Liquid Glass" is for. Instead of wearing the clear coat each time I buff it with "Scratch Out" I wear the "Liquid Glass". I initially put 8 coats of Liquid Glass to get a really deep shine and man was it deep. Now I simply clean once a month with Scratch Out and renew the Liquid Glass coat. And I every time I do the renew I am reminded as to just how sweet the paint can really look if I did this and then just left it in the garage "Yeah Right".
Whatever you choose to use I can tell you with definite experience that it is all in the 100% cotton diapers, both for paint and aluminum, and the amount of pressure you use when you wax and buff. Some of the guys on this site recommend micro fiber towels, which I do use with my waterless for day to day general cleaning, but if you buff your shit out with a 100% cotton diaper and then rub it just a little with the micro fiber you will see exactly what I am talking about. The micro Fiber towels scratch the shit ouut of everything. And you must use a product that removes swirls and scratches before you wax or all you will do is seal in the scratches that are already there. If you do this work out of the daylight then use a light to shine from the side against the paint. That will really show you, when you look at it from an angle and not straight on, if you have the scratches out or not.
I have asked the same question of numerous pro builders and gotten the same answer as listed above. Its all about just how patient can you be. Want it right takes time. I have had plenty of people promise me a magic potion and swear to me how great it is only to put out the money and find out that it really isn't any better than all the other bottles of shit in my shop.
Clean 100% cotton diapers is the real trick though. Don't be stingy and cheap and get a clean wrag for Christ Sake.
If you have really bad scratches in your paint then you can use like a 2000 grit wet sand paper and with a little water and just the slightest amount of pressure you can clean up the heavy scratches and nicks, polish it back out with Scratch Out and then seal it with Liquid Glass. I just finished pulling my tank and removeing the vent tube inside because it broke off at the bottom bung and was rattling like hell. So I have had problems in the past with bubbles in the paint around my gas bung and had read a nice thread by one of the killer painters on this site about using JB weld around the paint under the bung to help prevent this. Well long story short I Fd the pooch somehow and got JB weld on the paint under the Service Cover, Don't ask me how cause I jut don't know. Well I ended up taking a razor blade, and you must be incredibly careful with this method or you will damage your paint beyond a simple repair, scraped the heaviest stuff off, wet sanded the remainder including some really tiny nicks caused by the razor, buffed it back to a deep shine with Scratch Out and sealed it with Liquid Glass. Looks like nothing was ever wrong. Of course I was crapping my pants the whole time because the last F up cost me 450 bucks to fix.
Long winded but I hope it helps.
Last edited:
They never take them out of the garage except to the shows once a month.
Mine........... Well it'll never win any awards!
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Krogoth just remember "patience" is the key. Use Scratch out, or sand first if neccesary, until you get ALL the scratches out. When that paint is glass smooth and scratch free, looking from the side with a light, then seal it, WITH A CLEAN DIAPER, with Liquid Glass. Once you have done that then keeping that deep shine will be loads easier.
airbrush-ed
kustompaintbyed.com
One thing to also consider is using a clay bar to clean off any contaminates before you proceed with the above prescription. Just a thought!
KaptinAmerika
Guru
I gotta believe if anybody would know a wicked ass painter like ed would know. I'm adden clay bar to my repertoire from now on.
Thanks Ed
Thanks Ed
jimizee028
TRUE COLORS COLLISION
Now thats funny chit
airbrush-ed
kustompaintbyed.com
Thanks Kap!
MisterMister
Active Member
I've used fine clay bars for years. It really makes a difference.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Liquid Glass has a pre cleaner that will take any old wax right off and get you ready for the Scratch Off buff out. Remember the Liquid Glass is your final sealer so you want to have your paint scratch free before you begin applying Liquid Glass. Liquid Glass is similar to a spray on clear coat. You should let the bike sit in the sun for a few hours between coats to "Bake" the Liquid Glass between coats.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Target has them in the kids department. They might have a couple different brands. Get the brand with the highest thread count, space between each thread. The most important thing is "100% Cotton".
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Thanks for the tip bro. I went to the link and this stuff looks like it might be better than the waterless cleaner I use now. I am going to give it a try.
By the way everyone on this thread, I mentioned earlier that I was using micro fiber cloths for my daily waterless cleaning. I have sinced switched over to the diapers. I used the micros before because I was having to rub to hard to get the bugs and shit off, which of course lends to the scratching. But I have since switched waterless cleaners and this new stuff I am using, which may not be as good as this BugSlide stuff can't wait to try it, takes the bugs and shit off without rubbing hard so the diapers are doing the trick again.
