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EHC Reset?

Discussion in 'Ignition / Electronics / Batteries' started by SKOGDOG, Mar 16, 2017.

  1. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    OK--this is a mystery and I have no explanation to advance with any confidence.
    I posted about the horrible trip Blacktopper and I had to Galveston Lone Star Rally last fall. My starter and charging system failed. Iron Mike's Shop worked on it, was unable to fix it, and charged $400. The owner Mike has an explosive temper, and got vicious. Gotta say I have never experienced anything like it from a businessman. When he couldn't fix it, he just parked it by the highway in front of his business and closed for the weekend. We picked it up and pull started it and headed to Dallas to get Derek and his guys to repair it at Strokers. On the way there, it quit running just like someone cut a puppet's strings--like I hit the kill switch (I didn't).
    Took the seat off and it was clear Iron Mike's shop made a rookie mistake---my ground side cable was loose..I mean rattling around loose. The bolt was tight because he cross-threaded it, but the cables were bouncing. We tightened it, and no go, so we figured the ECH was fried. Fortunately I bought a spare on EBay and have been carrying it around for years. We installed it and pull started it again, and it fired up. Rode into Dallas, and wound up spending $1100 in repairs fixing what needed fixed (killed me to do that when it could have all been done at home).
    Mystery: I threw the fried EHC in a baggie and brought it home. While puttering around preparing to install new lifters and quickie pushrods, I recalled we put in that EHC under emergency roadside conditions and didn't use and dielectric grease or anything. So I pulled the EHC and was going to do that, and I remembered that Th3 Infamous1 made a remark in passing, wondering if an EHC could reset itself. So--I removed the spare EHC and slapped in the original, and sure enough...red and yellow lights blinked, and boom! The bike fired. The EHC is not fried after all.
    Is there a reasonable explanation for this? We truly figured the thing was smoked.
     
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  2. Th3InfamousI

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    I really wonder if after all was said and done it wasn't all battery related. The battery you had didn't pass the load test at strokers.

    I'd bet that starter you took back still works too!


    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Mr. Wright

    Mr. Wright Guru
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    You can reset the EHC by holding the positive and neg wires together. I realize you probably didn't do that, but yes, it might have reset itself. Sometimes when I jave something weird going on with a bike, I'll reset the EHC, sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't.
     
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  4. Big_B

    Big_B New Member

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    I have an 08 K9 with a replacement EHC from Kansas Motorcycles works. Is it possible to reset it? Having issue after exact same incident with negative battery connection coming loose. Replaced battery and repaired all connections to it, but no spark and no lights to EHC module. Cranks over great though. Also, the neutral light flickers on for a brief second when the key is turned, but hen right back out. Any ideas?
     
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  5. DracLopez

    DracLopez New Member

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    When you put positive to negative wires together they are from EHC ?? Right?? Does the battery have connected?? Thanks
     
  6. MossBerg590

    MossBerg590 Active Member

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    The ehc has a power and ground cable coming out of it. So if you hold the positive and negative cable together it will reset it and hold them together without the battery
     
  7. DracLopez

    DracLopez New Member

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    Cool!! Thanks!!
     
  8. Sven

    Sven Well-Known Member

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    Here is what little I know about the black box. First I'll start out with 3 basic components in a processor box and make it look easy, you go lifting the hood on this puppy.
    https://electrosome.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/LED-Chaser-using-4017-and-555-Timer-PCB.jpg
    They are in no certain order, but say there are integrated circuits or chips [black rectangle/square] that are more known as 555 timers. These are hooked to the wires coming and going out of the processor's box more or less. There are resistors [sausages with colored lines] next. These have different values so one knows what jobber is sending in input and output. The last are the [orange tower/orange pill] capacitors. These hold a voltage value and are immediately dumped to ground. Because the bike is doing so many things at one time it varies . There are VOES type vacuum values, the throttle position, the rpm, the air temp values and so on.

    So with every linear sweep, say the crank spin, the value changes at the crank sensor's magnetic wave length in micro movements and so on. When everything is running in this formulated value system, the saved signal in the capacitor holds that steady [balanced] value. Now the theory part. I'm going to make it walk so it sounds simple and logical, and no smoke up your ass. It's as if tied in handcuffs and can only work one way.

    I'm going to introduce the loose power signal. When the power is steady and is sending in 12v, the integrated chip [IC] has a shit load of 555 timers tied together to make those long caterpillar leg looking chips. So at that one timer leg, the input is 12v, the other leg goes to ground. The rest are in and out signals, and work in this handcuffed movement, better known as 60hz cycle we live in, aka, the handcuff. The timer coverts the processor to 5v. The processor works in a, for argument sake, 0.1v to 4.9v or less. When that battery post loosened up, it was like killing the processor, or turning the key off.

    The capacitors held the last good known value as you turn the key off. But here at the loose cable, there is a spike or spark across the post and cable. So for argument sake, a spike of 0.7v past across that threshold. That's not enough to cause the processor to light up. It also causes 3 constant movements it's handcuffed to. This is where the capacitor has this value or a held (1)threshold inside the capacitor. When the cable lost contact, it (2)triggered the cycle, and (3)discharged the last good known value out of the capacitor more or less. The new threshold was the 0.7v value [or less] held in the capacitor. This is a weak/poor/out of value input signal = No Start.

    If you held it steady in the cranking, the discharging of the values would have cleared, the crank sensor values cycled back to the good known signal via input to the processor. My guess is the crank build was not fast enough to raise the voltage and/or, not enough cycling to work up the crank throw numbers to process... needing so many crank passes to calc out the start value.

    So by grounding the wires, the capacitor held a poor value and this now empties the capacitor so it has no value at all inside.
    So by removing the processor, the capacitor can self bleed to zero. And there is where it started back up.
    So by reading thishit, first move is ground the battery cables together and reinstall back on the posts with 'vicious' detail to not strip'da'shit'up like an ass'hole'fartorquing fartorque'r.

    Then the processor sees in binary speak... 0000 ... The Bike Starts At Zero.

    Signed,
    NOLTT

    Pee. Yes.
    There is no difference you waggle your way to the processor and poke and prod the wires? Da fuck for? Take (+) cable off the battery and ground it. You have the battery out, then ground both cables. The processor is out on the bench? Then touch those said wires WATT-UP??
     
  9. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    In a much simpler time, that's what we used to do in Auto Shop class when we'd get a capacitor from the ignition points, charge it up, and toss it to an unsuspecting classmate.......zap to zero, eh?
     
  10. liferider

    liferider Guru

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    Skogdog you will love this. One of my electricians use to work at a motor shop. Well all the new hires had to spend day 1 with Pops. A 70 yr old guy who did the rewireing of 100 & 150 hp 460 3 ph motors. Don said his day with pops . Pop put a 50 hp motor on the work bench and hooked it up. Reached over and grab the motor. Then said Don come see , do you feel thing? Don got hit with electricity! Pop never let go of the motor. Don said what the hell??? Went back again and grabbed it and BAM again gets shocked all the time Pop has never let go of the motor. Don went for a 3rd time when the Forman yelled Pop your gonna kill this one. Pop was a amputee with actual wooden legs. Don said Pop always raised his good leg off the floor when he did this so he would not ground out!
     
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  11. SKOGDOG

    SKOGDOG One of the old ones.
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    That's a good one. Bet that guy thought Pop was the toughest s.o.b. He ever saw in his life!!
     
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  12. DracLopez

    DracLopez New Member

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    Hey does anyone one know if Thunder heart still tests big dog ignition modules???
     

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