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Clutch Pushrod Inspection and Lubrication How-to

Discussion in 'How-To' started by chacha, Dec 2, 2007.

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  1. chacha

    chacha Chaff Your EHC!!
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    OK. Nobody wanted to seem to do one on this so here it goes. First time for me doing this. This was done on a 2004 RSD Bulldog -- other RSD models should be similar. This is something called for at 2500 miles, but I think the "lubricate" part is often only done via the zerk fitting on the housing. It doesn't hurt to pull this thing apart every 10K to see that it's fine and not showing wear. Plus, I don't trust the single zerk fitting to get enough grease back into the clutch pushrod.

    Step one: Remove four bolts holding the clutch ramp housing to the tranny. This is where I really like my Lake Pipe -- most folks will have to remove the exhaust to get to the housing.
    [​IMG]

    Next carefully separate the ramp housing from the Tranny housing. Expect the gasket to have adheared to one or both of the housings. It's not a bad idea to have a gasket available just in case. This gasket just holds back grease and NOT tranny fluid, so it needs to be in good shape but not always replaced.

    What you will see is the first part (of two) of the clutch pushrod assembly sticking out.
    [​IMG]

    Pulling out the first piece, brought out the actual clutch pushrod itself. I'm not sure what you would do if this did not happen! The clutch push rod is in there pretty deep, like a tampon in a tall girl, so maybe I just got lucky. Anyway, pull that out too.
    [​IMG]

    Next clean those two parts and inspect them for wear or burn/heat marks indicitive of poor lubrication. Pay particular attention to the rounded pushrod ends for excessive wear.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    On to the ramp assembly housing. As shown below, I'm clearly pushing too much grease into the zerk fitting. I think a better job would have been to completly remove the ramp and ball housing and clean it out completely. But, I was not prepared to reassemble it if I had a problem, so I cleaned the area out as best I could without removing the ramp.
    [​IMG]

    Next clean the housings and push plenty of Hi-temp grease down into the hole the pushrod rides in. Reinsert the two parts of the clutch pushrod assembly, button it up (bolt tourque is 7-9 ft/lbs) and you're done with that part.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Lastly, I adjusted the clutch cable. :loony:
    This may not be required, but I'm paranoid when it comes to doing anything on a clutch -- I figure the adjustment can't hurt! Anyone with any experience on this procedure jump on in and pass in any tips. :up:
     
    reloaderbmg and Tim like this.
  2. P8RIOT

    P8RIOT Well-Known Member
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    :eek: Now THAT's expressive! :eek:

    Nice job, chacha - thanks for taking the time to share the pics, and your experience. :up:
     
  3. hoat

    hoat Well-Known Member

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    Thats great chacha!!! If that inner rod drops off put some grease on the end of the outer rod and jam it back in her and try and pic up the end of the inner rod that way!!!
     
  4. Gas Man

    Gas Man Cool isn't cheap
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    The worse part is the newer dogs don't even have the zerk...

    Good duty Chacha
     
    _JLook likes this.
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