Clutch Cable Problems and Solution Part No 1

Olde Man

Active Member
This post is in two parts because I was unable to load more than 10 photos in one post. My Bad. The link below will take you directly to Part No 2 if so desired.
Link to Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/

Part # 1
I was getting about 5k to 6k before my clutch cables broke on the hand control end. The last time one broke I was in Indianapolis about 2 miles from I465. I felt sorry for my starter and me. When I got a chance I looked at the wear on the cable and came to the conclusion that it was caused by the angular relationship between the clutch cable and the clutch lever causing excessive wear on the nylon cable coating and the cable exit point. You can see this if you use a flashlight and look in the back of your hand control while you pull in your clutch lever. You can see that the angle get extreme when the clutch pull is at its maximum.


Cable Ferral Wear.jpg
Notice the slot worn in the end of the cable.


Worn Cable Side View.jpg
This also destroyed the coating on the end of the cable.


I made two changes that extended my cable life. The first was to make a spacer that altered the angle on the cable as it entered the hand control by 15 Degrees. The second was to alter the shape of the chrome plated brass ferral with a dremal tool. I disassembled my clutch cable after 10,000 miles and could find no wear on the cable coating.


Cable Old Angle.jpg
This is the original entry angle


Cable New Angle.jpg
This is the 15 Degree entry


Clutch  Cable With 10,000Mi.jpg
This is the cable with 10,000 miles with no damage. Note the beveled cable entry. This can be done with a Dremel tool and pear shaped stone. I softened it back about 3/16" and tried to make a smooth bell mouthed shaped entry. It would be easier to do if it was done when the cable was broken and could be removed before you send it out for repair. Just take your time and hold the cable out of the way.


Spacer Tang Up View.jpg
This is the part that I made to provide the 15 Deg cable entry angle. It goes between the clutch cable retainer and the clutch cable. The tang goes into the retainer and positions the spacer angle correctly. The part can be made with a hand drill, hacksaw and files. A dial caliper helps. This is made from 3/4" steel round stock although aluminum would be easier to work.


Spacer Grip End View.jpg
Spacer View From Hand Grip End


The spacer is made by finding the center of the shaft. Mark a spot about .030 to the right of the center. Drill a pilot hole about 3/4" deep from the spot that is right of center. This hole will be drilled at a 15 Deg angle going to the left of center. The drill though the spacer shows the orientation. The finished drill size is 25/64". The cuts on each side of the tang can be made with a hack saw.


Spacer Tang Depth Size.jpg
Tang Depth


Link To Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/
 

Attachments

Last edited:

francoblay1

The Spaniard
This is a continuation of a thread named Clutch Cable Problems & Fix ??? The following should help in making the spacer that goes between the cable and the clutch cable retainer. When cutting out the tab the surface should be parallel with the face of the 3/4" stock. The drilled hole will be perpendicular to the soon to be cut off face at 15 Deg.


Tang width is not critical but can not be wider than .360" because it fits into the retainer.

View attachment 25613


This is a side view showing the cut off lenght and 15 Deg angle and orientation


View attachment 25616

This shows the narrow end. So far all of the work was done on a short piece of 3/4" stock which you could put in a vice to hold. Now is the time to make the 15 Deg separation cut.


View attachment 25617

Cut this slot to allow the spacer to be slipped over the cable


View attachment 25618

File or grind the flats on the right side over the slot. This .030" min. deep flat will allow the spacer to be removed by pushing out towards the hand grip. Look in the hand control and you will see the lip on the bottom that this flat clears to allow removal.


View attachment 25619

If you look closely you will see the material removed on the top of the hole on this side and the bottom on the other side. It is necessary because the cable goes though the hole at 15 Deg and you need the clearance.


View attachment 25620

Spacer and Retainer on an old cable


View attachment 25621

Install the spacer and cable first. Do the transmission end last. it gives you more cable to work with. I pack the ball ramps and cavity solid with grease. I think this helps control the wear on the bottom end of the clutch cable.
The spacer can be installed from the front or back but the front is by far the easiest. Assemble the clutch cable and lever and install. Install the cable retainer. Slide the spacer into the hand control as shown.


View attachment 25622

Insert the coated cable though the slot as shown. Make sure that the tang is up and the slot is orientated as shown so it will slide into the retainer.


View attachment 25623

This shows the cable in final position. I am very optimistic about this "fix" from what I can see at this point. Good Luck. By the way I do not believe that the problem ever belonged to Bennett. It is a design problem. I had them very graciously fix two of my cables under warranty. I will pay for the next one.

[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
Top