Olde Man
Active Member
This post is in two parts because I was unable to load more than 10 photos in one post. My Bad. The link below will take you directly to Part No 2 if so desired.
Link to Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/
Part # 1
I was getting about 5k to 6k before my clutch cables broke on the hand control end. The last time one broke I was in Indianapolis about 2 miles from I465. I felt sorry for my starter and me. When I got a chance I looked at the wear on the cable and came to the conclusion that it was caused by the angular relationship between the clutch cable and the clutch lever causing excessive wear on the nylon cable coating and the cable exit point. You can see this if you use a flashlight and look in the back of your hand control while you pull in your clutch lever. You can see that the angle get extreme when the clutch pull is at its maximum.
Notice the slot worn in the end of the cable.
This also destroyed the coating on the end of the cable.
I made two changes that extended my cable life. The first was to make a spacer that altered the angle on the cable as it entered the hand control by 15 Degrees. The second was to alter the shape of the chrome plated brass ferral with a dremal tool. I disassembled my clutch cable after 10,000 miles and could find no wear on the cable coating.
This is the original entry angle
This is the 15 Degree entry
This is the cable with 10,000 miles with no damage. Note the beveled cable entry. This can be done with a Dremel tool and pear shaped stone. I softened it back about 3/16" and tried to make a smooth bell mouthed shaped entry. It would be easier to do if it was done when the cable was broken and could be removed before you send it out for repair. Just take your time and hold the cable out of the way.
This is the part that I made to provide the 15 Deg cable entry angle. It goes between the clutch cable retainer and the clutch cable. The tang goes into the retainer and positions the spacer angle correctly. The part can be made with a hand drill, hacksaw and files. A dial caliper helps. This is made from 3/4" steel round stock although aluminum would be easier to work.
Spacer View From Hand Grip End
The spacer is made by finding the center of the shaft. Mark a spot about .030 to the right of the center. Drill a pilot hole about 3/4" deep from the spot that is right of center. This hole will be drilled at a 15 Deg angle going to the left of center. The drill though the spacer shows the orientation. The finished drill size is 25/64". The cuts on each side of the tang can be made with a hack saw.
Tang Depth
Link To Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/
Link to Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/
Part # 1
I was getting about 5k to 6k before my clutch cables broke on the hand control end. The last time one broke I was in Indianapolis about 2 miles from I465. I felt sorry for my starter and me. When I got a chance I looked at the wear on the cable and came to the conclusion that it was caused by the angular relationship between the clutch cable and the clutch lever causing excessive wear on the nylon cable coating and the cable exit point. You can see this if you use a flashlight and look in the back of your hand control while you pull in your clutch lever. You can see that the angle get extreme when the clutch pull is at its maximum.
Notice the slot worn in the end of the cable.
This also destroyed the coating on the end of the cable.
I made two changes that extended my cable life. The first was to make a spacer that altered the angle on the cable as it entered the hand control by 15 Degrees. The second was to alter the shape of the chrome plated brass ferral with a dremal tool. I disassembled my clutch cable after 10,000 miles and could find no wear on the cable coating.
This is the original entry angle
This is the 15 Degree entry
This is the cable with 10,000 miles with no damage. Note the beveled cable entry. This can be done with a Dremel tool and pear shaped stone. I softened it back about 3/16" and tried to make a smooth bell mouthed shaped entry. It would be easier to do if it was done when the cable was broken and could be removed before you send it out for repair. Just take your time and hold the cable out of the way.
This is the part that I made to provide the 15 Deg cable entry angle. It goes between the clutch cable retainer and the clutch cable. The tang goes into the retainer and positions the spacer angle correctly. The part can be made with a hand drill, hacksaw and files. A dial caliper helps. This is made from 3/4" steel round stock although aluminum would be easier to work.
Spacer View From Hand Grip End
The spacer is made by finding the center of the shaft. Mark a spot about .030 to the right of the center. Drill a pilot hole about 3/4" deep from the spot that is right of center. This hole will be drilled at a 15 Deg angle going to the left of center. The drill though the spacer shows the orientation. The finished drill size is 25/64". The cuts on each side of the tang can be made with a hack saw.
Tang Depth
Link To Part # 2
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-cable-problems-and-solution-part-2.73330/
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