boiling battery

Energy One

scholiak

Member
06 k9.just put new battery in and within 70 miles rotten egg smell and battery was smoking.. voltage reg is new and this is the third voltage reg in 4 years.. suggestions?????
 
Pull the stator plug, right side front of motor, using a meter test each pin for continuity to motor case, check for approx.. 70 volts AC between the two pins while motor is running. Continuity found replace stator, and possibly rotor, excess voltage replace stator.
The only reason for the battery to boil is a bad charging system.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Battery = DC (current)
Stator/Rotor = AC (current)
Volt/Reg = Converts AC to DC (current)

Who is the go-between? V/reg
Who converts A to DC? V/reg
Who regulates the volts? V/reg
Who causes excess volts to happen if the stator is putting out volts? V/reg
Who is the cause of a cooking battery? V/reg

Who has a preset coil wind? Stator
Who has a preset magnetic housing? Rotor
Who has a preset voltage at a certain rpm? Stator/Rotor
Who can't make more AC if the coil winds and magnets are preset? S/R
Who has to be balanced to the AC output so it does not burn up or cook a battery? V/reg
Who has output? S/R
Who cannot control the output? V/reg
Who cannot build a V/reg to balance out the S/R? V/reg
Who needs to look for a more balanced V/reg? The OP
 

BBChopper

Supports 2 Disabled Vets
Troop Supporter
Battery = DC (current)
Stator/Rotor = AC (current)
Volt/Reg = Converts AC to DC (current)

Who is the go-between? V/reg
Who converts A to DC? V/reg
Who regulates the volts? V/reg
Who causes excess volts to happen if the stator is putting out volts? V/reg
Who is the cause of a cooking battery? V/reg

Who has a preset coil wind? Stator
Who has a preset magnetic housing? Rotor
Who has a preset voltage at a certain rpm? Stator/Rotor
Who can't make more AC if the coil winds and magnets are preset? S/R
Who has to be balanced to the AC output so it does not burn up or cook a battery? V/reg
Who has output? S/R
Who cannot control the output? V/reg
Who cannot build a V/reg to balance out the S/R? V/reg
Who needs to look for a more balanced V/reg? The OP
Who's on First
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTcRRaXV-fg
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
I had my bike looked at for the same thing (boiling battery). I was going through a battery once a year.

My start button died, so I got a slam button. I read on hear to wire the C/R's to the bolt on the solenoid, so I did. I ran a ground to the battery post and she fired up. As time went by, the engine would struggle to get past the initial revolution, then it would spin and start (C/R's worked then & now). More time passed and it kept leaving me stranded, so my wife bought me a jumpstart kit. Used that for a while until I could get it to Jeff. He determined today that the ground wire should not be attached to the battery and as short as possible. He also found that the green wire on the side of the solenoid wasnt necessary to start the bike. Jeff says the draw on the battery because of my wiring and the green wire caused the V/R to stay wide open (so to speak) and flood the battery with juice it didnt need. Hence, the boiling over. Jeff said my charging system is fine, just my ground wiring for the C/R's and the green wire on the solenoid. Hope all this helped.

So I get a new battery and negative cable. Im looking into gel cells because size. Any recommendations?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Watt is my amp rated stator? 32a?
Who has the decent vo/reg? An old late 1990's h-d v/reg.
Will that match the same output as this engine's stator? If both the same years say the stator is a 32a, then yes, should work if yours has the same rating.

So if I started up sniffy outside with all that vapor leak or the battery walls are bulbus you can't pull it out of its slot? Take a volt/ohm meter, set it to 20v; start the bike; let it idle; prong the battery with the meter; I see 16v+ I have a bad v/reg, not a smelly melly working stator putting out the amps and the v/reg is burned out is to let the extra volts leak thru.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
not sure how
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multimeter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM

To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multimeter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
7) reconnect stator plug

To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multimeter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC
(if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multimeter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multimeter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC, anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
VDC, anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery
Disagree. My bike has less cca; does not have the headlight on while riding; she puts out 14.6v all day long. Battery [just checked] static is 12.73v sitting for over a week. Batt is 2yrs old, prepped as per small conversation with a Yuasa tech and their house procedure: checking their competitors batt under these same conditions.

"WATTchew taking about, Willis" :confused:
 
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