Baker RSD 6-speed tranny seal replacement with pictures

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chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
A Short set of shots from replacing these seals yesterday. Tranny had been leaking for ~ a year -- I was just putting off the job as it's mostly tearing down everything to get to the seal.

Parts:
HD 11165 O-Ring Quad Seal ($0.95)
HD 12067B Oil Seal, Mainshaft ($7.95)


Step one (no pics)
- Remove pipes
- loosen rear wheel to the stops so you'd be able to get the drive pulley off later
- drain tranny fluid (unless you're lazy like me)

Next, remove the pulley cover (mine's hydrolic and only has three bolts);


Not shown in the picture is a nut lock plate that has two 3/16 allen heads holding it. Remove this (that's why there are two threaded holes in the picture). Remove nut holding on the pulley. it's a 1-7/8 and is left-hand threaded. An impact wrench will get it off quickly. Move the drive belt out of the way.


This is what you'll see once you slide the pulley off (There is a spacer in there that slides off the splined shaft)...the outer black is part 12067B. This is just pushed (not pressed) into the case. It can be removed with a seal puller or a screwdriver --- just pry evenly around the perimeter and it will pop out. The small black disk on the right is a seal for the countershaft. Mine was a bit loose and had some marks from the pulley, so I pressed it in with some gasket sealer...worth checking while you're in there.


Old seal is on the left...replacement on the right.


This is what you'll see once you remove the spacer and oil seal. Check the mainshaft for ANY play and check the bearings for scoring or damage.



Replace the Oil Seal (12067B) by pressing it in and trapping it in place with a soft mallet. DO NOT use a drift or hard object as the seal is only rubber coated tin and will bend!

Part 11165 is the O-ring and it goes over the shaft BEFORE you put the spacer back on.



Now load up the tranny fluid -- it should take less than the full 20oz since you don't get it all out when draining. Put it all back together and you're done.
- Pulley Nut is 55-65 ft*lbs,
- the pulley cover bolts are 18-20 ft*lbs,
- exhaust stud bolts are 18 ft*lbs,
- the rear axle bolt is 45-55 ft*lbs.

Not a hard job at all, just takes time and a highly recommended impact wrench. Plan for 2.5-3 hours and $8.90 in parts :up:
 
Last edited:

wyatt580

Well-Known Member
Just did that last month... great write up. Still gonna copy and put in manual...just make sure you don't over tightn belt!!
 

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
chacha--what fluid type/brand of fluid will i need to replace?? can i get it at harley??
Your prefered transmission fluid, and Yes you can use the Harley stuff, but most would say go with Redline or Spectro. Everyone has opinions on fluids...a search on the forum will give you a ton of ideas.

Also, most Auto Parts stores don't carry bike fluids, but if they can get the stuff in in a couple of days if you ask them. I order K&N Filters and Redline fluids from my Auto Zone Store around the corner.
 

Clubba

Member
A Short set of shots from replacing these seals yesterday. Tranny had been leaking for ~ a year -- I was just putting off the job as it's mostly tearing down everything to get to the seal.

Parts:
HD 11165 O-Ring Quad Seal ($0.95)
HD 12067B Oil Seal, Mainshaft ($7.95)


Step one (no pics)
- Remove pipes
- loosen rear wheel to the stops so you'd be able to get the drive pulley off later
- drain tranny fluid (unless you're lazy like me)

Next, remove the pulley cover (mine's hydrolic and only has three bolts);


Not shown in the picture is a nut lock plate that has two 3/16 allen heads holding it. Remove this (that's why there are two threaded holes in the picture). Remove nut holding on the pulley. it's a 1-7/8 and is left-hand threaded. An impact wrench will get it off quickly. Move the drive belt out of the way.


This is what you'll see once you slide the pulley off (There is a spacer in there that slides off the splined shaft)...the outer black is part 12067B. This is just pushed (not pressed) into the case. It can be removed with a seal puller or a screwdriver --- just pry evenly around the perimeter and it will pop out. The small black disk on the right is a seal for the countershaft. Mine was a bit loose and had some marks from the pulley, so I pressed it in with some gasket sealer...worth checking while you're in there.


Old seal is on the left...replacement on the right.


This is what you'll see once you remove the spacer and oil seal. Check the mainshaft for ANY play and check the bearings for scoring or damage.



Replace the Oil Seal (12067B) by pressing it in and trapping it in place with a soft mallet. DO NOT use a drift or hard object as the seal is only rubber coated tin and will bend!

Part 11165 is the O-ring and it goes over the shaft BEFORE you put the spacer back on.



Now load up the tranny fluid -- it should take less than the full 20oz since you don't get it all out when draining. Put it all back together and you're done.
- Pulley Nut is 55-65 ft*lbs,
- the pulley cover bolts are 18-20 ft*lbs,
- exhaust stud bolts are 18 ft*lbs,
- the rear axle bolt is 45-55 ft*lbs.

Not a hard job at all, just takes time and a highly recommended impact wrench. Plan for 2.5-3 hours and $8.90 in parts :up:
Thank you so much brother. This helped me out a lot!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
This is an old one and I'm just seeing this now he is missing one good part to replace it and that's the mainshaft oil seal. #12035-B. Cost is about $7


Otherwise it's an easy job!

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

JJ300

New Member
When replacing clutch side transmission shaft seal(left side) does this seal need to be pressed in or just by hand? Thanks
 

pknowles

semi-retired...---... GURU C7Z06...---...
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
When replacing clutch side transmission shaft seal(left side) does this seal need to be pressed in or just by hand? Thanks

Why don't you just give Baker a quick call and get it straight from the horses mouth. (517)339-3835
 

BjornFuchs

New Member
@The3Infamousl: can I ask: when you took the trap door off (like on the photo), did you have to take out the gearset out also? Or can you leave them in the transmission?

This is an old one and I'm just seeing this now he is missing one good part to replace it and that's the mainshaft oil seal. #12035-B. Cost is about $7


Otherwise it's an easy job!

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
@The3Infamousl: can I ask: when you took the trap door off (like on the photo), did you have to take out the gearset out also? Or can you leave them in the transmission?
The full gearset stays inside just one gear attached to the door comes out slides right off shaft. Easy on/off.

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BjornFuchs

New Member
Thanks. I have replace the trap door gasket of my Baker 6 Right Side Drive, so this info helps me a lot. Never opened up a tranny before. So, basically it’s just about removing the right side bolts and then the trap door comes off?


The full gearset stays inside just one gear attached to the door comes out slides right off shaft. Easy on/off.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Thanks. I have replace the trap door gasket of my Baker 6 Right Side Drive, so this info helps me a lot. Never opened up a tranny before. So, basically it’s just about removing the right side bolts and then the trap door comes off?
OEM uses a little gasket sealer so pulling it of is it a bit finicky doesn't slide right off but it will come with a little work. Feels a little glued on.

I would recommend putting in a new gasket with a sealer as well. I use the Aviation Type 3 gasket sealer because it works (use it on my truck and bike) and remains soft it's whole life so next time door comes off it wont feel glued on.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

BjornFuchs

New Member
Thanks again. Do you put sealer on both sides of the gasket?

Really appriciate the help.

OEM uses a little gasket sealer so pulling it of is it a bit finicky doesn't slide right off but it will come with a little work. Feels a little glued on.

I would recommend putting in a new gasket with a sealer as well. I use the Aviation Type 3 gasket sealer because it works (use it on my truck and bike) and remains soft it's whole life so next time door comes off it wont feel glued on.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Thanks again. Do you put sealer on both sides of the gasket?

Really appriciate the help.
Yep put it on and place on trans case and gasket position correctly then a little bit on the outside and slide the door back on. Life is good. Now remember A little gasket sealer goes a long way, don't add it so it's oozing out
 
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