08 Mastiff Clutch Nut came lose @3k miles

Energy One

V

Guru
I got it from "Applied industrial Technolies" They have a branch here but I believe they are a National Company. The girl I spoke to said it was coming from a their ware house I think she said Texas. :confused:
 

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
I got it from "Applied industrial Technolies" They have a branch here but I believe they are a National Company. The girl I spoke to said it was coming from a their ware house I think she said Texas. :confused:
do you have a linky?
 

K9husker

Member
I just recieved my new parts for the clutch assmenly and there has been a change. The nut and washer is now heat treated. They also include a shim to space out the clutch to eliminate the rubbing on the inner primary. They also included a heat treated snap ring that goes on the back side of the clutch assembly. Torque to 150ft lbs, the loosen, loctite, then retorque to 120 lbs.
 

dogvet

Banned
I should add that BD engineering says to use #2760 Loctite on both engine and clutch nuts. It's designed for transmission and driveline vibration and shock. the bad part is, it $35 bucks a bottle and can only be removed with heat!
You don't need heat to remove a nut with 2760 on it. 2760 is just 271 with the primer added to it.
 

TCALZ06

Well-Known Member
At 2800 miles my clutch appeared to need a minor adjustment. I adjusted the clutch and rode for the day. Next morning I noticed clutch out of adjustment. I called the dealer who sold me the bike and spoke to the mechanic. He suggested I check the throw out bearing. I pulled the out primary cover, pulled the clutch apart and throw out bearing and push rod looked fine. I put a socket on the clutch nut and it was loose. I pulled the nut off completely. There was signs of red loctite on the nut. I called the dealer back and spoke to the mechanic. He informed me to clean the threads and nut completely, torque the nut to 50ft lbs before loctiting, pull the nut off, add loctite and torque to 100 ft lbs. Putting the bike in 6th gear made this very easy. Dealer provided excellent service. A 1.5 hr fix was easier than a 8hr day taking the bike in(3hr trip each way). Has anyone heard of a fix to prevent the nut backing off in the future, or is this a maintenance issue? Looks like a design flaw to me.
Ed
This is bad. I would have thought BDM would have fixed this on the 08's
 

dogvet

Banned
Ray the local service center here told me the same, clean and torque to 150' lbs remove, loctite and retorque to 100' lbs. Said BD mentioned that the trans shaft could have walked if if it was loose and this was to correct:confused:

I emailed BD about this but they have not responded:rant:

V
Which dealer said that?
 

dogvet

Banned
I talked to the engineering department at Big Dog yesterday and here's the scoop.
When installing the clutch nut, there should be a washer, if you do not have one, add one, part #120-000027-00. Then torque the nut to 150 ft lbs, then lossen, then retorque to 120 ft lbs with red locktite. Baker says the shaft will take up to 200 ft lbs so 120 is a sure thing to keep the nut tight. I have a 2006 K9 and it did not have a washer from the factory. He also said to order a spacer to put behind the clutch assembly to stop the clutch from rubbing the inner primarry cover. part #240-000313-00. I also replaced the nut part #120-000055-00 and the inner clutch hub part #120-000054-00.
Who did you talk to? I spoke to the head of the engineering department today and he was not aware of any such procedure. When you have a nut come loose, pitch the little brown o-ring that is between the clutch and the tranny, it isn't necessary.
 

V

Guru
Pulled my primary tonight and the clutch nut had loktite but was easily losened with one hand on the ratchet (no resistence). cleaned everthing up and put back together at 120 lbs. Will see:hi:
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Welcome to the "loose nut" club! Most of us are here for our trans input nuts... well besides BB, he's just a loose nut in all ways of life!! :whoop: :roll:
 
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