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07 K9 Clutch Basket Case

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drive' started by Slick-Dog, Sep 12, 2013.

  1. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    Well it did it again...clutch hub nut backed off (2nd time) ..This time iam taken the hole sob down.. I first noticed that there was a leak under the primary..I just put a new starter on and thought it was that..nope.. theres been a little vibration in neutral and it was getting more noticeable and so was the leak... Tore some of it down and sure enough i could wiggle the clutch a good 1/8'' ..So the leaking is coming from the clutch hub (Flange Hub) wobbling around....

    So my ? is ..has that happen to anyone else?

    Is there a seal I can replace in there as well?

    I havent got all the way into yet..I gota deal with that engine sprocket nut..first time its been off..

    And even with the hub nut off theres not supposed to be in play in the hub right??

    I`ll get it tore down and replace the bearings(clutch)..

    Steve
     
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  2. KaptinAmerika

    KaptinAmerika Well-Known Member

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    Yep its an issue
    You will need a new flanged hub, as the existing hub will be worn and unuseable, and a new seal.
    Unfortunately if you can't find the hub by itself somewhere in the open market the only way to get a new one is with the complete back plate unit. Baker will not sell the flanged hub by itself.
    I am getting pricing today on the back plate unit so I might be able to save you some money if you have to buy the complete unit.
    There is alot of discussion, agreeing and disagreeing about how to torque the Clutch Hub nut. I'll give you my two cents and you can take it from there.
    I have had the nut back off twice on my 06 K9. Both times were because of a shop installing it with only 80ftlbs of torque. That rate is fine for Harley I suppose but it does not work on the all BDs. Some have claimed that it does I can only tell you my experience.
    Clean all threads thoroughly with acetone.
    Apply a primer, like Loc-tite's threadlocker primer, and apply a high strength, high heat Red loc tite to male and female threads.
    Torque the nut to 200ftlbs, back off and torque again to 150ftlbs.
    Everytime I have done the above I have had "0" problems with the nub nut.
    Bear in mind I weigh 300lbs so its like riding 2 up all the time so you might be fine with torquing to 150, backing off and torquing again to 150.
     
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  3. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    Thank you Curt for the heads up! I can get that seal out of the inner primary right? Let me know about the hub...I found one here Mischief Cycle - Baker Clutch Carrier & Inner Hub, Big Dog 2005-2010, 3054A-DSSC

    But I would rather buy one from you or another member here that has one if possible.

    And was reading about what you said about torquing the CH nut in a post by Knuckles.. thats good info!

    Steve
     
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  4. KaptinAmerika

    KaptinAmerika Well-Known Member

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    Mischief is a supporting business here and takes good care of the members.I might be able to do better but can't say for sure yet as I am just setting up all the part numbers and pricing for the Baker parts.
    Yes you can get the seal out and back in. Run a heavy thread screw into the old seal and use a small slide hammer, or channel locks, to pull it out.
     
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  5. Utopiapga

    Utopiapga Active Member

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    Do you have the new hub nut from Baker? They are aware of this problem of the Hub nut backing off so they have now heat treated the Nut cause the other was to soft and after heating up it would then loosen up. When I went through all of my slippage issues Matt and Mark the Techs there at Baker told me about the Pressure Plate wear and also about the Hub Nut. The Hub Nit is only $6! I got it and the Pressure Plate for $72 shipped to my door in 48 hours. They also recommend as Curtis says to soak the shit out of the threads with high heat red lock tight and I was told to torgue down at 100lbs.
     
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  6. JeffM

    JeffM Active Member

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    Torque you say.
    So 3/4" electric rattle gun may be a little over the top?

    Thats what i used.
    All good so far.
    At work we use this method on all our compressors, haven't had a pulley come off in 20years. Same principal, it goes up to a shoulder on the shaft so it should not hurt anything. IMO
    But then again i am a rough bastard
     
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  7. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    You guys are great!! Thank you for responding!! feeling better about this already!!
     
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  8. BBChopper

    BBChopper Supports 2 Disabled Vets
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    I have always used my Snap-On impact and red loctite. Never had an issue.
     
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  9. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    UPDATE

    Allrightythen... I had a long talk with Mark from Baker and got a NEW HARDEN NUT and ordered some seals from Curtis@WSW... Got some bad ass red locktight and torqued it up to 150lbs....so far its good put on about 120 miles on it..and no leakie!!

    Then I got to checkn on all the other bolts and found the main engine mount bolt(the one on top) was loose..real loose.. so all that extra vibration shook the hell outa of things...

    It was really bad when that clutch nut was SLOWLY coming loose...Vibration City!!

    Valuable Lesson Learned.

    Steve
     
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  10. KaptinAmerika

    KaptinAmerika Well-Known Member

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    There is no replacing regular visual maintenance
    Glad you got things straightened out.
    That's something Raywood has always been good at...........except for checking his gas:roll::roll::roll::roll:
     
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  11. energyoneclutches

    energyoneclutches New Member
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    Slick-dog here's the stack height just for info on the clutch discs it should be 1".970 this is all the frictions and steels together. Hope this helps.kent
     
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  12. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    Do you have a diagram of this?
     
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  13. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    I should of taken a video of the bike before all the work was done..setting out idling in the driveway..vibrating enough that it was walking on the kick stand..I look like snail tracks in the driveway LOL!!!
     
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  14. Slick-Dog

    Slick-Dog Active Member

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    Final Update

    Just wanted to say Thank You to all that responded! The starter seal I got from Curtis and the new nut from Baker did the trick.. No leakie.. And the new main motor mount bolt and nut made a difference..Like a Cadillac.. Its been a on going problem for awhile..Hopefully its fixed for a long time....


    Steve
     
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  15. blackdogg6164

    blackdogg6164 Member

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    yes, they do have a new, heat resistant nut and washer that I purchased last Friday and it arrived yesterday. Skeet out at Nick's service center in Duquesne PA said my 08 Pitbull will be done tomorrow. I kept adjusting my clutch cable at the down tube and the clutch housing and the whole thing got tight no matter what we did so lo and behold this 11.00 nut/ washer from baker drivetrain came and the rebuild is on.....forgot to buy an outer primary gasket but that will get done in the AM......good luck. this will turn out well as these things tend to do!
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. Th3InfamousI

    Supporting Member

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    This is an old thread.but good info. You shouldn't need a outer primary gasket the one on the Big Dogs is quite good and can reuse multiple times it is recessed into cover. I have had it off 5x without replacing it and still no leaks.
     
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  17. blackdogg6164

    blackdogg6164 Member

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    well, as you said he used the one on the bike and I have been rippin free ever since. time to get some pins, pegs and a pillion......this dog will hunt for sure.
     
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