Clutch Issues

Energy One

FIEND1970

New Member
Scott from PA here....I have an 05 Ridgeback....3 years ago clutch went....had local shop replace they installed the Baker 9 plate clutch and I never liked it always felt like slipping in higher gears....just got a stock pack from Bigdog put it in changed the ball and ramps back to stock as well...put it all back together properly adjusted per manual....and when in gear bike creeps alot...finding neutral from either 1st or 2nd is when running is impossible...tried adjusting to only a 1/4 back turn, then an 1/8 same issues....in order to prevent the creep I had to adjust with no back turn and tighten cable to almost no slack..it shifts thru gears ok, finding neutral is still tough but i can....but now the pull on the lever is way to heavy....

I can't figure out what is wrong ..unless bigdog sent me the wrong ball and ramp? any help would be appreciated...thanks
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here's the breakdown:
1. Ball&Ramp; The ramp is like a teardrop. The ball sits in the deepest part. The arm moves the balls up to the narrowest part of the teardrop.
This moves the rod so many mm's against the pressure plate. So if the indents did not grow deeper, the rod did not shorten, then the throw is normal and this shows no excessive wear needing replacements of said parts.
2. Pushrod to ramp; Whereas, the adjust screw moves out towards you as the plates wear down. The screw follows the rod, meaning, the screw has to have a slight gap for parts growing as it heats up. However, the 1/4 turn out from touching the rod is more then enough growth of expansion. 1/2 turn out is making the ball climb the ramp more. The trick is to keep the balls in the deepest part of the teardrop so the rod has less distance to push the pressure plate away from the pack of plates.
3. Pressure plate design; There are two basic pressure plates. One is a flat aluminum plate that is solid in design and does not wear or move from its basic form. A wave plate however has memory. Meaning, it will concave into a cone pattern when the plates wear thin. This wave plate needs to be flat upon assembly. The way to move the plate flat is to add more steel or friction plates so the stack can push the wave flat.
4. Wave plate v. rod adjust; Notice how the concave plate has to be pushed flat so it matches a non-waved pressure plate. The ramp took up all the length of trying to make the wave be flat. Therefore, the plates are never separated because the wave is still not flat, and this now drags the plates so as it creeps, and/or is hard to find N... because of that drag via the wave not being flat to begin with.
5. Steel&Friction Memory; The steels are stamped out and have a cut edge to them from the sheering. If you want to see memory at play, the assembly is to run the plates with the cut side facing you. In other words, find the cut side and have each plate installed with the cut side stacking up as one memory movement. For example: Lay your hand over the other hand. Note all fingers move in the same direction. Face one hand against the other as if praying you understand this post. Notice how the fingers fight each other. So when you pull the clutch lever in, the plates relax and this memory either breaks free being stacked one way [is the cut side], or you see how just throwing plates in any direction, your fingers are pressed against each other and cause drag finding N this way as well.

Conclusion:
A. Stack the plates so they have the same direction upon assembly.
B. Have the wave plate remain flat so the plates are stacked to cause this wave to be assembled flat when the pack is assembled.
C. The screw turn is 1/4 out from the balls being in the deepest part of the ramp, the rod is set back the farthest at the arm.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
The other thing I forgot to mention about creep/finding N, are the steel plates. Place all in palm, cuts facing in one direction is the stack, and then see which one is warped? That air gap drags on the next plate, causes creep in gear, and hard finding N, even with the correct adjustments at the pressure plate and lever gap. So they should show no gap, shuffle the stack again so the top and bottom are now in between the stack.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Did you get new steels with the new friction plates?

I'm also guessing you got a 2005 or newer? The pressure plate stock was just aluminum and it will wear funny. You need to make sure you have the newer anodized pressure plate too which could have been the problem all along. Stock was silver aluminum color and the new hardened plate is brownish.

These OEM friction plates should last more miles than most people ride. I suspect it was never the issue actually.

Also when your adjusting the 1/4 turn before your doing that you loosened the clutch cable all the way, right? And it's 1/4 turn from very light resistance, as soon as you feel resistance back it off 1/4. Now if you got the primary cover off you can turn it until you see the clutch pack move ever so slightly then leave it at zero lash, both methods work.


Once all the above has been tried you need to measure the stack height, maybe thicken a steel or two. This was covered in great detail earlier this year, quick search will give you all the details.



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Last edited:

FIEND1970

New Member
Did you get new steels with the new friction plates?

I'm also guessing you got a 2005 or newer? The pressure plate stock was just aluminum and it will wear funny. You need to make sure you have the newer anodized pressure plate too which could have been the problem all along. Stock was silver aluminum color and the new hardened plate is brownish.

These OEM friction plates should last more miles than most people ride. I suspect it was never the issue actually.

Also when your adjusting the 1/4 turn before your doing that you loosened the clutch cable all the way, right? And it's 1/4 turn from very light resistance, as soon as you feel resistance back it off 1/4. Now if you got the primary cover off you can turn it until you see the clutch pack move ever so slightly then leave it at zero lash, both methods work.


Once all the above has been tried you need to measure the stack height, maybe thicken a steel or two. This was covered in great detail earlier this year, quick search will give you all the details.



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ok thanks
 

DogFish

New Member
I just bought a 2002 BD Mastiff, all stock. Clutch seems to be working ok but, squeaks like crazy. Tried adjusting pressure plate and cable. Still squeaks. What clutch should I buy to replace it. New here and appreciate any and all suggestions. Dogfish.

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DogFish

New Member
I just bought a 2002 BD Mastiff, all stock. Clutch seems to be working ok but, squeaks like crazy. Tried adjusting pressure plate and cable. Still squeaks. What clutch should I buy to replace it. New here and appreciate any and all suggestions. Dogfish.

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Tightened the loose belt and squeak is history!

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JB105

Member
The best option for you if you really want all the benefits of smooth shifting, hard acceleration with no slipping, find neutral with ease at idle or at speed with clutch lever pulled in, and no worries of the starter filling with primary oil! Yes it’s not cheap but the performance and reliability benefits are well worth the cost.
9FEF3A3C-D614-4787-8910-7D3C92E2FFBF.jpeg
 

bdm7250

Guru
Supporting Member
The best option for you if you really want all the benefits of smooth shifting, hard acceleration with no slipping, find neutral with ease at idle or at speed with clutch lever pulled in, and no worries of the starter filling with primary oil! Yes it’s not cheap but the performance and reliability benefits are well worth the cost.
View attachment 62572
Or better yet, try to find yourself a Karata.. Best OP made or these bikes...
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Scott from PA here....I have an 05 Ridgeback....3 years ago clutch went....had local shop replace they installed the Baker 9 plate clutch and I never liked it always felt like slipping in higher gears....just got a stock pack from Bigdog put it in changed the ball and ramps back to stock as well...put it all back together properly adjusted per manual....and when in gear bike creeps alot...finding neutral from either 1st or 2nd is when running is impossible...tried adjusting to only a 1/4 back turn, then an 1/8 same issues....in order to prevent the creep I had to adjust with no back turn and tighten cable to almost no slack..it shifts thru gears ok, finding neutral is still tough but i can....but now the pull on the lever is way to heavy....

I can't figure out what is wrong ..unless bigdog sent me the wrong ball and ramp? any help would be appreciated...thanks
Drop in 28oz Trick Shift instead of regular primary fluid. I had the same problem and the fluid fixed it completely. You can get it from Pep Boys for about $12.
 
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