Lost Clutch (I think)

BWG56

Guru
Why do you have the clutch push rod in before you have the clutch and pressure plate assembly together?

Maybe you should wait for curtits.
 

Iowachopper

Member
Let me try and clarify, without the throw out bearing installed I broke the bolt. I assumed this was because it the throw out bearing was not pushing against the push rod so it allowed me to bottom out the pivot bolts. I took it apart, removed the broken bolt and re-assembled it without the push rod. I installed the Throw out bearing and finger tightened the pivot bolts. Installed the pushrod and then tightened the pivot bolts down to 10 ft pounds. I guess I don't understand why it broke off to begin with. When I took it apart it was bottomed out. Curtis said 20ft pounds for the bolts.
 

BWG56

Guru
Let me try and clarify, without the throw out bearing installed I broke the bolt. I assumed this was because it the throw out bearing was not pushing against the push rod so it allowed me to bottom out the pivot bolts. I took it apart, removed the broken bolt and re-assembled it without the push rod. I installed the Throw out bearing and finger tightened the pivot bolts. Installed the pushrod and then tightened the pivot bolts down to 10 ft pounds. I guess I don't understand why it broke off to begin with. When I took it apart it was bottomed out. Curtis said 20ft pounds for the bolts.
Back off the push rod, pull it out, then tighten the bolts, then set the push rod according to the manual, snug to throw out bearing and then back off 1/4 turn according to manual.
 

Iowachopper

Member
I did read all of Chapter 4, I assumed given the age of the manual I guess everybody had figured out a torque spec but it seems there isn't one and the clutch diaphram needs to be measured. Is that accurate? Which would make sense given everything I did/didn't do. I did use red loctite on the clutch hub nut and did clean the threads and torque to 160ft points. Also used blue Loctite on the rest.
 

Iowachopper

Member
Back off the push rod, pull it out, then tighten the bolts, then set the push rod according to the manual, snug to throw out bearing and then back off 1/4 turn according to manual.
Funny what makes sense when you alone in the garage until you start to type it out and read what your typing....
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I did read all of Chapter 4, I assumed given the age of the manual I guess everybody had figured out a torque spec but it seems there isn't one and the clutch diaphram needs to be measured. Is that accurate? Which would make sense given everything I did/didn't do. I did use red loctite on the clutch hub nut and did clean the threads and torque to 160ft points. Also used blue Loctite on the rest.
Thought there was a torque spec on those? 20ftlbs? Is coming to mind.

Yep looks like 20 is right


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Iowachopper

Member
Thought there was a torque spec on those? 20ftlbs? Is coming to mind.

Yep looks like 20 is right


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

I sure feel like I'm missing something here. I have an '05 Chopper, that manual says to go by measured height and not torque. When I initially received the clutch assembly I did do 20ft pounds and it felt like I was going to tight so I backed off to 15 and before I got to that it snapped. I pulled it all apart and the pivot bolt had threaded correctly through the flanged hub and bottomed out on the carrier bearing. The pivot bolts are the same length as the ones from my old clutch. I am beginning to wonder if my harbor freight toque wrench is not accurate. I stopped tightening the pivot bolts this time at 10 pounds to re-group. The clutch assemble I have is a brand new complete assembly from Baker. I may also just call them tomorrow. I've read the forum upside down and back and all I can think is either the chopper is different (Which I've read nowhere) or maybe its the torque wrench. I have another one I might compare the 2. Thanks again for everybody's input, I have to admit its a little frustrating given my lack of knowledge but the forum sure makes its easier.
 

Srodden

Well-Known Member
Hey Mike, I just replaced my pressure plate with the upgraded version and the throwout bearing, new spring, anyhow I used to have a slight creep also, but after replacing those things and adjusting the pushrod by turning it in till it's snug then back 1/8 turn I don't have the creeping anymore and it shifts unbelievably good! You prolly should remove the primary cover, pull out the clutch plates and see what's up in there, then after you know that you can go from there.
I have a 2011 Mastiff I bought brand new. The bike had a creep from day one. I tried everything I could to fix it. I finally just bought a new clutch and pressure plate from energy one. This fixed my issue
 

BWG56

Guru
I have a 2011 Mastiff I bought brand new. The bike had a creep from day one. I tried everything I could to fix it. I finally just bought a new clutch and pressure plate from energy one. This fixed my issue
Did you use the 9 or 12 disc?
 

Iowachopper

Member
Well after all that BS it was my torque wrench. Don't buy from Harbor Freight, not sure what it was tightening to but it was WAY past 20ft pounds. I borrowed a buddies snap on and it hit 20 ft pounds pretty quick on a newly inserted bolt. On the 3 remaining bolts I put the torque wrench to 240 inch pounds (max) and they were tighter than that. That is what the HF tool said was 10!
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Well after all that BS it was my torque wrench. Don't buy from Harbor Freight, not sure what it was tightening to but it was WAY past 20ft pounds. I borrowed a buddies snap on and it hit 20 ft pounds pretty quick on a newly inserted bolt. On the 3 remaining bolts I put the torque wrench to 240 inch pounds (max) and they were tighter than that. That is what the HF tool said was 10!
Never had problems with my HF torque wrenches....

Although I heard about a guy at work who used the NM side instead of the FT lb side and that will ruin your day. And he broke a head bolt ha

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Iowachopper

Member
Never had problems with my HF torque wrenches....

Although I heard about a guy at work who used the NM side instead of the FT lb side and that will ruin your day. And he broke a head bolt ha

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Well not bashing them by no means. I was on the FT lbs side thank god! While scratching my head I went to the HF website and read the reviews. Lots of broken bolts. Just my experience.
 

Steve2134

Member
Pull the pushed and take a look at the point to see if you have any wear from contact with the throwout bearing. The rod is case hardened and once the hardening wears out, it goes away quickly, at which point, it's time to replace. Good luck.
I did not know this. Looks like I’ll be getting a new push rod.
 
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