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Old 10-03-2010, 05:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Clutch

I've tried everything to get my clutch going but nothing seems to work. I took the primary cover off and all plates. None were damage and the Clutch basket nut was tight. I put new primary fluid and put everything exactly like it came off and even soaked the plates in the oil before putting them back on. The plates are working correctly and I see them perfectly fine squeezing in and out. I pulled the rod out on the clutch adjustment and it was straight with no damage what so ever. I looked up the How to on the clutch adjustment and went step by step but with the clutch pulled in still the bike rolls like its in gear.

Guess I we spend the money and get someone that knows what their doing to fix it.

Thanks for all the great advice
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:04 AM   #17 (permalink)
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05's starter had a recall. Some 05's clutches has problems ... fix it with a Super Bandit Bruiser clutch ... check your pushrod adjustment. Lot's of how 2's ... that's how I got my 05 running great. Next my EHC!!!! Again lot's of how 2's. Don't give up on doing it yourself ... you can do it ... Make sure you are putting the right weight primary oil.
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Will the bike roll in neutral?

You say "but with the clutch pulled in still the bike rolls like its in gear." Do you mean won't roll at all, just rocks back and forth against the trans play?

When the inner clutch pack was out on the floor, could you move the bike in any gear?

Maybe something in the trans is locked when in any gear, but I have no ideas. Trans oil level okay?

Either the clutch disengages or it doesn't. You must confirm it.

Before reinstalling the pri cover, did you test for clutch disengagement operation?

How did you confirm it?

If you pull the clutch lever and the clutch pack won't disengage then troubleshoot upstream.
Clutch adjustment
Clutch cable
Clutch cam assy
Push rod (Greased)
Clutch pack assy



You must systematically elliminate the possibilities. Or just take it to a qualified service tech.
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Last edited by BigDogBro1; 10-03-2010 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You might want to get it up in the air with the rear wheel off the ground. Make sure its in gear and remove the spark plugs. Try to get it up to around third gear or so and turn the rear wheel. This should turn your tranny and your motor over a few times. Put it back on the ground, replace the plugs and get it into nuetral and try to start it. Go from there. That should free any minor things that may be stuck. Now if you've got missing teeth in your tranny your somewhat screwed.

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Old 10-05-2010, 07:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey buddy I know how you feel but I really dont think a starter has anything to do with your cluch. By the way I think you should bring your bike to the shop.
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:57 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Clutch

Some guy at the shop adjusted my clutch and it still won’t roll in any gear with the clutch pulled in. This guy states that the bike needs to be warmed up for a couple of minutes for the clutch to start working correctly. I call bull %$#@.
I check everything from the clutch basket nut to the clutch plates, fluids, clutch adjustment rod and cable. This guy said after its warms up the clutch works fine.. I can see the clutch plates/packs work as well.

I simple put the bike in neutral, start it and let it warm up, pull the clutch in, tried to put it in gear and it jumps and dies.

The bike will roll in neutral though!


Please Help>???
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:23 AM   #22 (permalink)
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If the bike free wheels in N then the clutch should be the issue. Not sure of the carrier configuration but the tran.shaft should turn free of the basket when the clutch is pulled in. Possible frozen bearing on the basket or carrier?
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:25 AM   #23 (permalink)
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where are you located?
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:28 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Ada Oklahoma.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAMS445 View Post
where are you located?
Ada Oklahoma. So how would I know if the carrier bearing was frooze?
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Remember... the clutch assy. is just a converter from motor to tranny. the shaft coming out of the tranny spins free. The crank shaft will not obviously,so..with the clutch in, plates loose the basket should turn separately from the pressure plate. Sometimes the rod adj.is the culprit. 1/4 turn on the adj nut will do it.
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:40 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Hey gang ,
Does anybody have a pictorial of the clutch assy for reference?
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:28 AM   #27 (permalink)
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same problem I'm having

My Ironhorse has sat for 2 months now. Changed primary oil right before I parked it. Used synthetic oil. Now when I pull the clutch in, nothing. It won't disengage the clutch. Pulling the clutch lever does move the rod just fine. I can hold the clutch in and rock the bike back and forth until it rolls, but rolls hard. When I release the clutch lever the clutch engages, but when I pull the clutch lever in again, I have to start all over again rocking it back and forth so it will roll again. I should mention it is a hyraulic clutch and is bled. Like I said when the lever is pulled in, it does move the rod about a quarter of an inch in and out. Any help will surely be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:08 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Welcome KC, first do an intro in the intro section, then start you own thread for your problem and you will probably get a better response. There are a lot of knowledgeable members on here always willing to help.
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Old 11-20-2010, 12:29 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Lots of great advice there folks. The leaking thing would drive me crazy, no sleep at night kinda thing, flashlight, standing on my head on the middle of the night fixing it, if it were mine of course. There was a time before Nafta, before they shut the plant down, when I was responsible for what we called PM maintenance on an entire production department's equipment( maybe $30-$40 million in brakes, turrets, presses , etc). Daily inspections were a part of the routine fluids, leaks, weird noises operators heard, basically treating them like you owned them(if they did not run people went home). They were so surprised how much better the equipment ran, the production schedules met easily, much less DOWN TIME, when they actually let someone, assigned me to see that it was done like it should be done. Even the operators were surprised how much easier it made their job to have a piece of equipment that ran constant, with very little down time. We took care of little things leaks, noises,etc. and so many times we would find other things that would have caused major down time, people getting sent home, loss of production, huge money cost at both ends. Down time is a bad thing, it makes even my eyes bug out, get possibly phycotic, but I fix things as they begin to show problems as much as I can. My ECH quit working at maybe 80 mph ( maybe my speedo needs calibrating ), 70 miles from home, it made for a crappy day, weekend. The first lesson I learned is my scooter does not push well, so pushing 70 miles, well out of the question. I spent the rest of the day getting it to a shop, where they told me the ECH was crapped out. I got it home and though help of the people here on this forum, Jake and several others I installed it myself, with their help and assistance of course. I replaced the battery(Interstate), got the new ignition switch and wire plus from Jake, and scooter is running again, better than ever. I am thankful to these guys on this forum for helping me.
There is a good thing in your clutch crapping out on you in your garage/shop you can skip to the second lesson by-pass lesson where you would have learned these scooters don't push well, and with a locked up clutch it would not even roll down hill. Try more patience and these guys will walk you through getting the cluch working again.

Ray
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:21 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Thumbs up pilot-125

I joined Saturday and asked a question and had numerous answers within 24 hours. "Thats awsome" You guys are great
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