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Old 05-07-2008, 08:29 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lee View Post
as I said before you need a new pushrod - you have the exact same thing I had - I needed about 2 complete turns out with my old pushrod otherwise the clutch would not engage but when I put my new one in it was 1/4 turn without adjusting anything else. Some of the 05 pushrods were too thick and get smoothed out - you will see what I mean when you compare it with your new one.
Thanks Lee ... do have any instructions on replacing the pushrod? Is it not working because the one I have is worn out? thanks
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #32 (permalink)
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If you have adjusted the rod, then you can remove it... Simply keep spinning it out and then it will just come out.




And as said above by Ray... the ball ramp assembly is what takes the clutch cable pull and pushes the rod out on the primary side. On your stock setup it pushes against the back of the clutch diaphram (a plate that simulates springs like my new banditt has) This releases the tension that hold the clutch plates together. Which "disconnects" the power from primary to the tranny input shaft.

The center hole is where the clutch rod comes thru


Then wth my setup there is a "tip" on it


Then the end plate with springs that push the plates together till your clutch rod pushes out on the plate releasing the clutch plates as I said above



EDIT:

I found pics of my old stock setup. I think your 2005 will be the same.

Assembled


Under the clutch diaphram


The pushrod is in the center

Last edited by Gas Man : 05-07-2008 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Hi GasMan .... appreciate the photos ... from what I can see I can just take the adjusting cover off like I've been doing and loosen the nut and pull out the pushrod. If I do that I'm not going to hear any noise like I'm at the casino at the 5 cent slots am I? What kind of pink grease should I be using when I replace the pushrod? And can you explain why Lee and I had to back off the pushrod 2 1/4 turns for the clutch to engage. Is it that worn out that I need to do that? Thanks for the info ... I can sleep tonight ... thanks again
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:43 PM   #34 (permalink)
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surferdude - I can't explain to you the mechanics of why the worn pushrod causes this but it does - at least it did with mine and you have the exact same symptoms. Call nelson and he'll sort you out. And yes, just unscrew it as you have been doing and pull it out and then just push the new one in, with the grease. Nothing will fall apart or collapse. I think Gas uses Mobil 1 grease - make sure you put plenty in there.
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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re

When the owners manual mentions greasing the Throw-out bearing...is it refering to the ball and ramp assembly?
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:16 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Mine was almost impossible to get into neutral as well, I did this (twice, I read it as CLOCKWISE not COUNTER ) it's much easier now...
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:03 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
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surferdude - I can't explain to you the mechanics of why the worn pushrod causes this but it does - at least it did with mine and you have the exact same symptoms. Call nelson and he'll sort you out. And yes, just unscrew it as you have been doing and pull it out and then just push the new one in, with the grease. Nothing will fall apart or collapse. I think Gas uses Mobil 1 grease - make sure you put plenty in there.
Thanks Lee & Gas Man ... I gave Nelson a call yesterday but he hasn't returned my call yet ... I will definitely get a new pushrod and grease ... you all have been a great help ... appreciate a whole lot ... Thanks again
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:03 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Yeah mobil 1 grease.
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:03 PM   #39 (permalink)
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When the owners manual mentions greasing the Throw-out bearing...is it refering to the ball and ramp assembly?
no - the throw out bearing is part of the clutch assembly itself
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Old 05-08-2008, 01:05 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Thanks Lee & Gas Man ... I gave Nelson a call yesterday but he hasn't returned my call yet ... I will definitely get a new pushrod and grease ... you all have been a great help ... appreciate a whole lot ... Thanks again
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:21 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Well ... got some bad news ... for me ... but obviously not the first ... I talked to Nelson and the guys at Strokers ... those guys are great ... they were busy yet had the time to "educate" me about the pushrod, clutch etc. I pulled off the primary inspection cover and did not like what I saw ... I did the 10k primary fluid change and now at 13k the fluid is all gray and something was grinding and wearing out. So far the bike is running good but sooner or later something will break or just stop working. I called the service guys in Prescott and they said that it should take about 2 hrs to replace the clutch carrier and put in a new clutch ... I would attemp to do it myself but I'm not that confident yet. I see that some of you have put in the Bandit clutch .... any other suggestions? Thanks ...
Also since I'll have the clutch all apart what else should I be thinking about?

Last edited by surferdude : 05-11-2008 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:48 AM   #42 (permalink)
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IF your clutch needs replacing, I would of thought the Bandit would be the way to go - there is a how to on here by Jake on installing the bandit - read it through a couple of times before you decide on paying the extra for someone else to do the work. I'm sure Jake will also help you out with any issues as he has done this already.
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:11 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Go with the Banditt. Granted mine is a dry clutch but it rocks so far. Way better engagement.

Save yourself some money and do it yourself. Its NOT that hard once you get past the tranny shaft nut

How To: Bandit SuperClutch/Carrier Install
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:25 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I quarter inch or a quarter turn?
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:49 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I quarter inch or a quarter turn?
It's 1/4th turn but this is for the RSD set ups. Don't know what it is on your "OLD" system!



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