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Old 03-11-2009, 01:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stlmikie View Post
How can you tell if it has had the bore job. I have the t-jet but couldn't tell you if it had the bore? Tell tail signs?

like 117bigdog said

first pic shows restrictor on intake port


second pic shows the smaller restrictor bore compared to the intake manifold
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:49 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If you go with the G carb you can buy the kit from Big Dog or Nelson (wicked Bastard a supporting member of this site) The kit will have the G carb, and correct manifold.

If you buy the parts seperatly the G intake is the stock 124" intake (taller cylinders on the 124)

The E as Ray mentioned will give you the low end torque.

You gotta also decide where you're gonna be ridin 2500 rpms or 4000 rpms

Okay start throwing rocks
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:39 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I changed allot with my engine. I started with removing the baffles in the stock exhaust, then removed the restrictor plates, installed the K&N and jetted the carb. It ran great. Some people would say thats enough but I love speed. Then I got beat a few times so I had Thunder cycle install the .640 cam. hehehehe After that my clutch wouldn't hold the power so I installed the bandit clutch. Then had the carb ported and a t-jet installed and an aftermarket ignition. From there I had the valve guide problem and sent the heads to John Sach and he cut the heads down to give more compression installed bigger valves and did a port job. And last I put on the rb racing 124 challenge pipe on. The bitch rips now. When the tire is a little cold it will spin it in 1st, 2nd, and a little in 3rd. I had it dyno'd and it was around 120 hp. I had john sach ride the bike and he said it feels like it has some more in it that the carb seems like it needs more tuning. Its a blast now. Every step of the way I picked up more and more power. ( except the clutch obviously)
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I would say it depends on what type of riding you would like to do. If you want to ride with Baby Ray on his new Whizzer, stick with the "E" carb.

If you want to buy a new rear tire and a new clutch, go with a "G" carb....

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Old 03-11-2009, 03:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i like that
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:16 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 117bigdog View Post
I changed allot with my engine. I started with removing the baffles in the stock exhaust, then removed the restrictor plates, installed the K&N and jetted the carb. It ran great. Some people would say thats enough but I love speed. Then I got beat a few times so I had Thunder cycle install the .640 cam. hehehehe After that my clutch wouldn't hold the power so I installed the bandit clutch. Then had the carb ported and a t-jet installed and an aftermarket ignition. From there I had the valve guide problem and sent the heads to John Sach and he cut the heads down to give more compression installed bigger valves and did a port job. And last I put on the rb racing 124 challenge pipe on. The bitch rips now. When the tire is a little cold it will spin it in 1st, 2nd, and a little in 3rd. I had it dyno'd and it was around 120 hp. I had john sach ride the bike and he said it feels like it has some more in it that the carb seems like it needs more tuning. Its a blast now. Every step of the way I picked up more and more power. ( except the clutch obviously)

sounds great!

you got me beat with the RB pipe.

but i think i got you with the PSI.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:49 AM   #22 (permalink)
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yea you do . I want to get one of those psi carbs. But right now it is allot of money. they say they make more power than anything else. I would be pissed if it didn't, especially for over a grand
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Vicky from KC cut a deal with MC Advantages to try one at a deep discount.

let me report to her customer base that it works good.
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 117bigdog View Post
I changed allot with my engine. I started with removing the baffles in the stock exhaust, then removed the restrictor plates, installed the K&N and jetted the carb. It ran great. Some people would say thats enough but I love speed. Then I got beat a few times so I had Thunder cycle install the .640 cam. hehehehe After that my clutch wouldn't hold the power so I installed the bandit clutch. Then had the carb ported and a t-jet installed and an aftermarket ignition. From there I had the valve guide problem and sent the heads to John Sach and he cut the heads down to give more compression installed bigger valves and did a port job. And last I put on the rb racing 124 challenge pipe on. The bitch rips now. When the tire is a little cold it will spin it in 1st, 2nd, and a little in 3rd. I had it dyno'd and it was around 120 hp. I had john sach ride the bike and he said it feels like it has some more in it that the carb seems like it needs more tuning. Its a blast now. Every step of the way I picked up more and more power. ( except the clutch obviously)
Nice stuff 117bigdog
so If I just wanted to make some quick and easy power gains I could just pull the restrictor plates. this would have me similar to your first modifications? Pipes, intake air flow and restricter plates. I didn't cacth if you said your still running your E carb. if so did that need modified?

thx mark
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:44 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I have the g carb now worked with the thunder jet. If you keep the e for now and pull the restrictors out you should have it dynoed to to check a/f ratio.
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:15 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Nice stuff 117bigdog
so If I just wanted to make some quick and easy power gains I could just pull the restrictor plates. this would have me similar to your first modifications? Pipes, intake air flow and restricter plates. I didn't cacth if you said your still running your E carb. if so did that need modified?

thx mark
if you pull the restrictor plates you will need spacers to sit in their place. Or you could open up the bores in the restrictor plates with a dremel or something.
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:57 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I've heard that if you want to eliminate the restrictor plates that they make a spacer plate to put in place of the restrictor plates. Does anyone know if this is true and who makes them or where to get them.
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:11 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I've heard that if you want to eliminate the restrictor plates that they make a spacer plate to put in place of the restrictor plates. Does anyone know if this is true and who makes them or where to get them.
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Jim's Machining has spacer plates.
A better idea,if you have the money,would be to do your engine work.If the heads are done properly(compression set),chances are you won't need to use spacer plates.
John
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Old 04-05-2009, 05:28 PM   #30 (permalink)
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do you have any contact info for Jim's Machining. Phone or web address?

thx Mark
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