My map is crap-ping out. Watt gives? Basics 101

[Sven]

Bulletproofull

[Sven]

Here comes a slight controversy stl can clue you in on. Unless you want to chase your tail like finding compression first before you ever open a tool drawer. There is a carb adjustment thread out there. Why not I answer it here. This is carb related to tuning, we are now in the air screw adjusting of the tuneup.

Tuneup and tuning are two different ways to adjust the bike. One is blueprint, the other is massaging the parts, i.e., port it, degree cams, pig it.

However, this tool is called a manometer. This shows the linear. You are more or less, removing the toilet lid, pushing the ball up and down trying to find the best stop, meaning, stop the flow.

The filling of the tank is linear in filling, yes? Correct. This manometer acts as that ballcock in the toilet. You want peak float, in other words. Are we seeing a pattern here with the twisted sisters website, Mikie?

Embarrassed their ass is threw me out. They have no clue about this air screwing business. How you can damage both body and needle with all this move it in and bottom it out, turn it out crap? Easier than you think.

If your manometer was hooked up, you move it till it peaks. You know by turning it in, the liquid will drop. That way, you will be far away from that taper before you ever get to touching that needle to the body's hole. No harm, no foul... Sorta pun.

The ear tuning is for the backyard novice. The manometer is ultimate tuning going after the qualifier question. WOT is the qualifier question? There is only one number.

[pknowles]

Originally Posted by Sven

Other than a low idle miss, I'd have a scored guide that would still be scoring and seize, I would believe? I would then think cam lobe, but not when it comes and goes. I would have to assume the gall would keep the valve open at higher rpm if not gall the stop, tag a piston, we found the problem. I would also have to rule out the cam lobe. Runs at random miss. The cam would be the constant. The gall would be the constant. The mechanical is sort of ruled out?

Back to spark or fuel? We may have removed parts off the harley onto this bike, but we didn't change out plugs. Random spark is a fouling plug. Bike has a map. Map has more fuel. Map loads up the bottom. Sometimes the pull away clears it, sometimes not?

Spark plug if cracked, was what that mist and jump would have done. Once cracked, it does funny misses. Low speed miss and/or low speed hesitation, needs to be on the same page:

Low speed miss = Broken plug/deteriorating plug wire/smoked tips at either end of the wire or inside the coil plug-in/black powder peppered over the plug's porcelain.

Low speed hez = Dirty air cleaner/Clogged up muffler bearing/Mapiss Crapiss... Instead of, map is crisp from bottom to top.

Haven't had time to check the fuel injectors yet, but as I stated before, the timing light shows a miss-fire on the rear cylinder at idle. I am almost positive it's on the electrical side. The plugs and wires are all good and connected in the right order.

[stlmikie]

I do agree. I think it's a shame that people get so bent over it. Cause they don't get it.

Originally Posted by Sven

Here comes a slight controversy stl can clue you in on. Unless you want to chase your tail like finding compression first before you ever open a tool drawer. There is a carb adjustment thread out there. Why not I answer it here. This is carb related to tuning, we are now in the air screw adjusting of the tuneup.

Tuneup and tuning are two different ways to adjust the bike. One is blueprint, the other is massaging the parts, i.e., port it, degree cams, pig it.

However, this tool is called a manometer. This shows the linear. You are more or less, removing the toilet lid, pushing the ball up and down trying to find the best stop, meaning, stop the flow.

The filling of the tank is linear in filling, yes? Correct. This manometer acts as that ballcock in the toilet. You want peak float, in other words. Are we seeing a pattern here with the twisted sisters website, Mikie?

Embarrassed their ass is threw me out. They have no clue about this air screwing business. How you can damage both body and needle with all this move it in and bottom it out, turn it out crap? Easier than you think.

If your manometer was hooked up, you move it till it peaks. You know by turning it in, the liquid will drop. That way, you will be far away from that taper before you ever get to touching that needle to the body's hole. No harm, no foul... Sorta pun.

The ear tuning is for the backyard novice. The manometer is ultimate tuning going after the qualifier question. WOT is the qualifier question? There is only one number.

[Sven]

Originally Posted by pknowles

The plugs and wires are all good and connected in the right order.

This says:

1. Coil
2. Wire
3. Plug

If we have one coil, 2 leads out, then the front coil should misfire too. Eliminate coil.

If we have you following your diagnostics, 'it is not the wires,' lets assume they are fine, you cleared that list. It is not the wire.

If we narrow down to the last variable? Could it be as easy as a fouling plug? Change the plugs around. I'd rather not mess with the plug holes. I rather use new plugs with their fresh crush washers. Save those threads as much as possible.

[pknowles]

Afternoon Sven, well, last night afte work before trying to check the fuel injectors, I started the bike up and no miss. I took it for a 20 mile run with stop and go traffic and still no miss. I don't know what to sa other than thanks to the ones who have tried to help me with this miss. I will ride the hell out of it tomorrow and let you know the results. Thanks again.